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~ The more I studied beekeeping, the less I knew, until, finally, I knew nothing. But, even though I knew nothing, I still had plenty to unlearn. Charles Martin Simon

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Tag Archives: beekeeping

It Always Starts with Assessment

14 Wednesday Oct 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping management, hive inspections, inspections

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

assessment, beekeeping, colony assessment, hive assessment, honey bees, management

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Ever wonder why beekeepers are either reluctant to give advice OR you end up with multiple suggestions in response to the same question?

One reason is because seldom does the beekeeper being asked have a full picture of the issue being discussed. The problem and visual is clear enough in the mind of the person asking the question but usually their assessment isn’t clearly presented to the mentor or bee buddy. So what often happens is the mentor steers clear of guessing to avoid giving bad advice OR they venture a guess based on inadequate data. Since it is inadequate data it isn’t too difficult to wonder why multiple answers are sometimes suggested.

Good assessment data increases the odds of getting accurate suggestions.

So, as above, it always starts with Assessment.

APIE – Assessment, Planning, Implimentation, Evaluation

I worked in a hospital setting much of my work career. When it came to people’s lives I didn’t guess before administering treatments, care, medications, or interventions. I either was assured of my initial assessment or I stopped and re-assessed before proceeding further.

Measure twice; cut once! Well, sort of…

Of course beekeeping doesn’t quite have the same level of accountability and errors are not as devastating as in healthcare. However, the same methods can be applied which, if followed, should result in better outcomes for the bees and beekeeper. Until one Assesses how can they make a suitable Plan? And how do I decide on the proper Implimentation until a Plan is developed? And if I am to learn anything at all in this process I must Evaluate my results. Otherwise I make the same mistakes over and over, year after year, never understanding why.

But, again, it all starts with Assessment.

A Google search will yield many assessment sheets and data collection tools. Use them especially when first starting with bees. At some point it’s likely they will become second nature. And by second nature I mean you’ll do them without the need for prompting with a piece of paper. Let’s look a some things you may want to consider with regard to Assessment:

It’s easy – look, listen, smell! Touch and taste – not so much…

Approaching the hive:
Are they flying? Is the temperature such that they should be flying? Are they guarding the entrance? If not ask yourself, why not? Is the exterior of the hive marked up with bee poop? Are there dead larvae on the landing board? Dead bees? If so, was there a cold snap or is it appropriate cleansing, chilled brood, drone evictions? Are some hives flying and others not? Are there bees circling any hives looking for entrances? Are there bees fighting on the landing board? Are the foraging bees launching themselves into the air on departure? Are bees coming back to the hive heavy or with pollen? Are there yellow jackets, flies, or other pests hanging around the entrance? Do I have an appropriate entrance guard on based on the bees ability to guard? Any signs of dead bees in front of the hive? Any signs of wax cappings under the hive? Any moth or spider webs? Isn’t this easy – you haven’t even suited up yet!

Entering the hive:
What’s your idea on weight when you lift the hive from the rear? Is the number of boxes as expected for the time of year and history of the colony? What is the reaction to a puff of smoke at the entrance? What is the reaction to removing the inner cover? What does the hive smell like? Are there SHB inside the inner cover? Any sign of other pests? Is either the bottom or top box empty of bees? Do the bees run down between the frames when you give them a gentle puff of smoke or fly away? Are they unusually testy? Does what you are seeing, smelling, hearing correspond correctly with the season and temperatures? Does the top bars of the uppermost box have an appropriate amount of bees on them? Is there burr comb on the inner cover?

Frame examination:
Is there a well defined brood area? Where is it located within the hive (upper boxes? bottom boxes? chimney?) Is the capped brood density appropriate or spotty? Any cappings perforated? Appropriate worker brood to drone ratio? Is there a band of pollen over the brood and honey above that? Can you locate the queen either by sight or based on brood area? Is she where you want her? As you work, is the colony tolerating you? Are they giving you a roar to leave? Any signs of pests? If so how bad is the pest level? Any signs of PMS? Is the size of the colony in bee population appropriate for the number of boxes you have? What is your impression of the bee density and the number of frames covered with bees? Can they guard the amount of comb space you have given them to guard? Is there adequate stores? white wax? good brood pattern? Is the open larvae swimming in food? Is the hive functioning as a fine tuned machine?

And always, the follow-up question to the unexpected is, “Why?”

And so it goes with many many more questions that sometimes have different answers based on temperature, weather, seasons, bloom, dearth, and so forth. But it costs you nothing to ask these questions of yourself. Ask away and take note of your answers. And when the answers don’t add up to what you expect, are out of sync with season, or other hives, or just not what you expect look further for more questions to ask. Be the detective. Re-interview the witnesses and suspects. Get to know them well enough to spot the odd response or presentation.

If you think this is going to take years, you may be right. But I do think we get a little better every year. Keep asking questions of yourself and the bees until you see patterns and you know what follows various presentations.

 

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Fall Nectar Flow

10 Saturday Oct 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in fall nectar flow, nectar flow, beekeeping

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Tags

beekeeping, fall management, honey bees, management, nectar flow, seasons

Goldenrod flowers blooming in a meadow beside a woodland trail
Goldenrod blooms brighten a sunny meadow beside a quiet woodland path.
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The Fall flow is officially on in my corner of Southeastern Lexington County, South Carolina. Weight gain, white wax, and increased activity indicate a nectar flow. I went out to feed some of the lighter hives and noticed some white wax as well as some weight gain on hives since 10 days ago. As the day warmed the bees were definitely flying with intent with some congestion on the landing boards. Even with the lack of rainfall, fall flow is on over here in the barren sand hills of Southeastern Lexington County. If it’s on here in this sandbox it’s likely you may find it’s on elsewhere in the Midlands. Bees flying with intent, launching themselves off the landing board immediately after exiting the hive entrance, increased incoming traffic as well landing and hurrying inside, other bees show excited behavior on the landing board, overall appearance of heightened purposeful activity, some white wax noted inside, the smell of goldenrod and sight of yellow pollen coming in.

It was a happy day indeed to be able to save some of that syrup until another day. I found a renewed interest in the pollen feeder which baffles me a little but may be a result of some increased brood rearing… I don’t know. All these things are a pleasant change from the doldrums of dearth. Pray for some rain to sustain the flow. Order up – winter bees please.

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Many Uses of Beeswax

09 Friday Oct 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beeswax

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

beekeeping, beeswax

beeswax-5

For the young lady who came up to me at last night’s farmer’s market and purchased two bars of beeswax. I asked what your plans were and you said you didn’t know yet. We discussed some things that came to the top of my mind but as I drove home I remembered lots more uses which I wish I had shared. I hope you see this post which, actually, is just the beginning. An internet search on any of these items adding in the term “recipe” should get you more detailed information on homemade applications.

To start, a good article titled “25 Uses of Beeswax” by Paleomama can be found here:

http://thepaleomama.com/2015/11/25-ways-to-use-beeswax/

and for a quick list of brainstormed uses here are some quick ideas:

101 Uses for Beeswax

Thank you Crafting Montana for coming up with this great list

1) lubricant for very old furniture joints.

2) Smooth movement for doors and windows.

3) Component for mustache creams.

4) Prevents bronze items from tarnishing.

5) Use as a rest prevention.

6) Furniture polish when mixed with linseed oil and mineral spirits in equal parts.

7) covering cheeses and preservatives to protect from spoilage.

8) Conditioner for wood bowls and cutting boards.

9) Coat nails and screws to prevent wood from splintering.

10) Used by NASA with an enzyme to mop up oceanic oil spills.

11) Cake guitar bodies to boost longevity.

12) Coat tambourine surfaces for thumb roll playing technique.

13) Coat reeds for woodwinds to get a tight fit.

14) Egg painting in a Ukraine folk art of Pysanky.

15) An essential ingredient in Indian art of fabric dyeing called Batik printing.

16) Candles that don’t drip and have no smoke.

17) In candy like gummy bears, worms and jelly beans.

18) To water proof leather.

19) Molten beeswax to polish granite counter tops.

20) To make crayons.

21) With palm oil for soap.  The palm oil reduces scars and the wax a natural moisturizer.

22) Mix with palm wax for a natural hair remover.

23) To reduce bow string friction.

24) on whips to water proof.

25) in bullets.

26) With comfery and chick weed powder to alleviate itching.

27) Wire pulling.

28) Sewing to strengthen the thread and prevent snagging.

29) To fill seams between pieces of slate when setting up a pool table.

29) Plucking the feathers from fowl.

30) As a flexible mold for a variety of mediums.

31) Jewelry.

32) Clean your clothes Iron.

33) In glass Etching.

34) Encausting Painting.

35) To make earplugs.

36) Ear Candling.

37) When fashioning Dreadlocks.

38) To make Dental floss.

39) For cracked animal hooves.

40) When making cosmetics.

41) When making chocolates.

42) Copper sinks.

43) Removing previous waxes.

44) In Blacksmithing.

45) Basketry.

46) To coat Baking pans for smooth exit of goods.

47) To coat the hemp strings on Bag Pipes.

48) To make balms.

49) Barbeque preparation.

50) When making healing salves, creams and ointments.

51) Use in pharmaceuticals.

53) In manufacturing of electronic components and CDs.

54) As a polish for shoes and floors.

56) To unsticking drawers.

57) Keep zippers moving smoothly.

58) To water proof boots and saddles.

59) To coat hand tools to prevent rust.

60) To lower cholesterol, ulcers, diarrhea and hiccups.

69) To relief pain, swelling (inflammation)

70) In beverages.

71) In manufacturing as a thickener or emulsifier.

72) In fragrances in perfumes.

73) To seal documents.

74) An ingredient in surgical bone wax.

75) Blended with pine rosin to serve as an adhesive.

77) A metal injection molding binder component.

76) In the embalming process.

78) As a stabilizer in the military explosive Torpex.

79) To coat hemp strends – an alternative use to lighters.

80) A natural Air purifier (when used in candles).

81) Glazing of fruits and vegetables.

82) Chewing beeswax can help quit the habit of smoking.

83) As a hair pomade.

84) Grafting plants.

85) In the restoration of pictures.

86) Wax fly fishing lines so they float.

87) To keep saws sharp.

88) Grinding and polishing of optical lenses.

89) Used in crafting of dentures and other dental equipment.

90) To seal and polish smoke fired pottery.

91) Used on snow skis for a good glide.

92) Used for base ring for toilets (in the past).

93) Use3d to cover a broken wire on braces until you get to your orthodontist.

95) To prevent stretch marks.

96) Saturate cardboard with beeswax and use as a fuel for a backpackers fuel for stove.

97) Beeswax candle as emergency heat when trapped in a car or small space.

98) Temporary filling until you can see your dentist.

99) To seal stick matches to stay dry when boating, fishing or skiing.

100) To prevent slippage for belts in vacuums and sewing machines.

101) As a wood filler

read more Crafting Montana

 

 

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Autumn Absconding and Other Odd Events

08 Thursday Oct 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in absconding, beekeeping, beekeeping seasons, CCD, seasons, ursurpation, varroa

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

absconding, beekeeping, CCD, dearth, fall management, hunger swarm, seasons, swarms, ursurpation

small swarm

(above) Small October cluster on bluebird box. Collected after the flood of 2015 – reproductive swarm or abscond?

Late summer and autumn swarming does occur but is an exception and probably occurs only in unique situations. Biology says when the parent hive is ripe for reproduction and all conditions are met the goal is to swarm. Queens that fail to reduce laying during dearth, well fed colonies, with the addition of a brief nectar and pollen flow may indeed swarm during this time of year. Inspect overachieving hives and disrupt the colony by adding empty drawn comb, sharing excess  brood with weaker hives, or  taking off excess honey stores. This makes the parent hive less than ready and disrupts their plans. Only after all conditions are met will they swarm and if nature or the beekeeper gives them work to do at home they will typically stay. In general, however, this time of year it’s hard for them to feel that conditions are optimal for swarming.

What we saw last year was an apparent increase in abscondings or colony failures where all of the bees left the hive and did not return. Abscondings are typically related to poor conditions in the hive or environment. i.e. starvation, drought, mites, SHB, yellow jackets, critters. Historically these were termed “hunger swarms” but may occur with or without food being present. I like to think of the conditions that precipitate abscondings as stress related. Think of it this way, if your house was overrun with fleas you might stay a while but eventually you’d gather your family up and say, “I’m not sure where we’re going but we’re not staying here.” Same for food; if you lost your income, no job prospects, and had no cash flow for food eventually you’d say, “I don’t know if I can get a job in Timbuktu but I know there are no jobs here so we’re moving.”

How are reproductive swarms and abscondings different?

Swarms are generally reproductive in nature and motivated by the organism’s innate drive to reproduce as a result of positive and plentiful stimuli. This is why they usually occur slightly before and at the start of the main nectar flow when resources are at their highest. This gives the swarm the greatest chance of survival. Late season swarms are probably generated by the occasional but less likely situation where the hive is simply full of stores, lacks room for expansion, yet is being stimulated with brief fall pollen and nectar flows. It’s a bad time for them to swarm and in all probability will not have a positive outcome for the issuing swarm.

Abscondings are different in that most of the bees in the hive will leave. It’s like one day they decide they’ve had enough of the poor conditions (stressors) and decide to leave. Unlike a swarm, it is precipitated by negative stressors. The beekeeper comes to the bee yard and finds the hive almost empty. The bees inside are usually bees that were left behind due to being out foraging at the time of the absconding or they are newly emerged bees. If there is little capped brood you can assume they have been stressed for some time – scant brood decreases the attractiveness of the bees to the colony.

After last year’s events most beekeepers remarked that they never saw a cluster hanging in a tree nor any new colonies in swarm traps. One possibility is usurpation. Usurpation is when one colony forces its way into another hive and takes over. Apis mellifera scutellata is rather noted for its tendency to usurp calmer races of honey bees. One author promotes the idea that usurpation is more common than we think. The event goes unnoticed as there is no clustered swarm and the landing is not in a tree limb or swarm trap but another hive in the bee yard where they take over operations. Actually, as a survival mechanism, this is quite clever whereby a colony over run with stressors during a time of poor nectar production can unite with another weaker colony and increase its chances of survival.

What about the queen? That may be the $64,000 question. Colony Collapse Disorder symptoms where the queen and a few bees are all that’s left behind continues to mystify many researchers. I’m not going to say I have the answer that the researchers have yet to answer. It is a mystery. But I will say that it’s no mystery that the queen isn’t the only card in the game when it comes to honey bee behavior. Most beekeepers, after a few years in the hives, understand other powers at play within the colony like lack of brood pheromone, population balance, and the host of chemical pheromone balances that signal wellbeing or decline. Leaving without a queen is typically viewed as colony suicide, but as we have already covered above, usurpation might provide an answer to why one colony might leave a failing queen behind.

Another answer proposed to account for the events experienced last year is that the bees died while foraging or failed to return home. While this may be possible, it does not account for the lack of thousands of nurse bees that should have never left the confines of the hive.

In closing, I’m not offering any single cause to what you hopefully will not see this autumn in your bee yard. Last year, here in the Midlands as well as elsewhere, we witnessed multiple accounts of bees absconding. Almost no one saw a cluster hanging in a tree, captured a swarm, or otherwise accounted for the missing bees. We know many of these events were recounted by the beekeeper as having occurred within the course of a week. Forty thousand bees one weekend; two hundred the next weekend. Stressors last year included exceptionally high heat during dearth period, approximately half of normal rainfall, and of course the ever present Varroa mite.

We did an impromptu survey to see if a particular cause could be identified. However, no single cause was identified. In some instances it appeared to be related to mites, in other instances, poor forage or lack of feeding, the much higher than normal temperatures experienced, and/or a rainfall approximately half of typical for our area. Conversely, our survey data showed that those that offered their bees more supportive measures had fewer or no abscondings. Respondents with no abscondings had higher reporting for feeding during the dearth period, treatment for Varroa, availability of water, and overall higher supportive management of their colonies. This would seem to indicate that while no specific stressor could be implicated, a lowering of the stress level by increased supportive management reduced colony abscondings.

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Poor Man’s Yellow Jacket Trap

04 Sunday Oct 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, pests

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

beekeeping, beekeeping pests, pests, yellow jacket trap, yellow jackets

yellow jacket trap

I’ve made several traps in the past with varying degrees of success. Here’s one specifically designed that allows the yellow jackets to enter but not the honey bees. I think it is a 5/32 size hole. Last year I tinkered with the mix formula. Instead of totally sweet which would attract the honey bees I stumbled onto a mix of apple sauce, vinegar, and a spoonful of sugar (just enough to get a fermentation going). The yellow jackets like the CO2 and I think and the vinegar is not attractive to the honey bees. I used a 2 liter bottle and filled it about half way full in a short time. If you get your bait mix down it will not attract the bees at all and you can then open up the entrances for the yellow jackets.

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Midlands Beekeeping Calendar for October

01 Thursday Oct 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in calendar, beekeeping calendar, management, beekeeping seasons, beekeeping, beekeeping chores

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Tags

beekeeping, beekeeping calendar, beekeeping chores, management, seasonal management

kudzu

Kudzu blooms, Purdue Extension photo/Chris Parker

As always, All beekeeping is local. Here’s my offering for the beekeeping calendar for the South Carolina Midlands for the month of October:

Plan on checks once or twice this month but otherwise do not work unless necessary to prevent the triggering of robbing behavior. Try to not be too disruptive in order to allow them to get their house (brood box) in order for winter.

If you have not yet treated for varroa it’s important that this is done before your winter bees are exposed to the smorgasbord of viruses that varroa transmits when it feeds. Also, it’s not sufficient to just treat. You also need to have some idea that the treatment was effective in reducing the numbers of varroa in the colony.

Expect the break in the weather to occur during mid-October. Local legend has it that the State Fair brings autumn to the Midlands. Looking forward, our average date for first frost is the last week in October and the first freeze the first week of November. That said, the bees still have plenty of flying days ahead before winter.

Notice goldenrod and asters along the roadways. Kudzu will also provide forage if available in your area.

October:

1) Remove fall flow honey if appropriate. In my few years of beekeeping I have never had enough of a fall nectar flow to take honey. However, I have had colonies that were so large at the end of the spring flow that I was unable to reduce their cavity size to winter configuration until October. When this happens I am usually pleasantly surprised to be able to take some surplus frames from the bees, still leaving them enough for winter. Remember if you treated for Varroa using a product that affects the honey you will not be able to eat this honey but the bees will be happy to get it back in late winter / early spring.

2) October is your chance to make sure you “right size” your hives for the coming winter months. If you have not reduced your hives to winter configuration, early October is one of the last times which will still allow the bees time to propolize any cracks before winter and get their food stores properly situated. Typically, for the Midlands, a standard configured ten-frame Langstroth hive of bees will need 30- 35 lbs of honey to overwinter. This, along with living quarters, equates to at ten-frame deep (brood box) and a ten-frame shallow or medium above the brood box (sometimes called the feed chamber). To “right size” your hives remove hive bodies (supers) above the feed chamber. i.e. any empty, partial, or full supers. Extract and store these (protected from wax moths until temperatures drop and we have a hard freeze). Or, in the case of supers with stores, you may share these resources with colonies that do not have adequate stores (equalizing).10203677770399632

2) Process supers and store for winter. After any extracting your options for cleaning the sticky frames are to either place the supers back on the hive or place them out in the yard for clean-up. If placed out in the yard expect some comb tearing as the bees rob the supers of leftover honey. I am lucky that I do not have neighbors close and can separate the sticky supers from the bee yard by 100 yards or more. If you don’t have these options don’t leave sticky supers out where they can create a nuisance for your neighbors and cause a feeding frenzy spreading to your weaker hives. Instead consider simply placing them back on the hive and your bees will do the work of cleaning the supers and placing the leftover honey in the hive bodies below. Remove the cleaned supers in a few days returning your hives to winter configuration.

3) Protect your drawn comb. After it gets cold wax moths will no longer pose a threat. Until we get cold weather (end of November) you will need to protect any drawn comb you have removed from the hive. Methods vary from placing the frames in the freezer, placing outside open to light and air, using Paramoth (paradichlorbenzene) or use of BT (bacillus thuringiensis aizawai).  BT is available from bee vendors. Clemson article on wax moth IPM.

4) Reduce entrances if not yet done. The appropriate amount of reduction is what your bees can guard. I like to see 20-30 bees on my landing board guarding the entrance. If you have this or more, and your entrance is well defended, and you may not have to reduce the entrance from its current setting. A three to four inch entrance is typical for this time of year. Addition of an upper entrance such as a notched inner cover is advisable prior to entering colder weather to allow for ventilation and allow moisture to escape.

5) It’s time to change to 2:1 syrup feeding to add stores and weight. Feed bees as necessary. As you recall, we started stimulating brood production in late August with a full 1:1 sugar syrup mix. Your bees, by now, should have some weight on them and you should be seeing an increase in orientation flights. When you see foragers bringing in goldenrod and other fall pollens they are raising your winter bees. Your colonies should have some open nectar for brood rearing available from the feeding you have already provided. If they have plenty of open nectar but are still not heavy with stores it’s time to increase to 2:1 syrup to put some weight on the colony.

6) Any colonies that are lagging behind in weight should be fed aggressively at this time. Assuming you have reduced them down to overwintering configuration, now is the time to make sure they are increasing their stores in preparation for winter. Use 2:1 sugar syrup via your normal feeding method. Whenever they run out of syrup, refill. If using a jar feeder enlarge the feeder holes just a bit to allow them good access to the thicker syrup. The 2:1 syrup, fed rapidly, creates a situation where the bees cannot consume it as fast as they empty the feeder thereby creating a situation where they must store the thick syrup. Also remember, soon it will be more difficult for the bees to remove excess moisture (after the temperatures cool) so use 2:1 early to enable them to ripen the syrup and store. If you have colonies with more frames of stores than needed, consider sharing the bounty with less fortunate colonies.

7) Continue to tip colonies forward from the rear to assess their weight. Notice the number of frames of honey stores inside so that you can compare what you are feeling with what is actually inside. You will need this assessment skill during the cold of winter on days when you shouldn’t open the hives.

8) Pollen: Usually we get a nice pollen flow in the Midlands during the month of October. New beekeepers will notice, perhaps for the first time, the yellow and orange blooms along the roadways. That “smelly sock” odor you may notice in your hives this time of year is attributed to goldenrod. Kudzu blooms in late summer and will continue into early autumn producing a beautiful purple pollen. The bees will use autumn pollen to both raise winter bees and to stockpile for use during next year’s spring buildup.

9) Remove any queen excluders on hives. A queen excluder during the winter will prevent the queen from moving up with the winter cluster as the bees consume honey and move upward clustering and staying warm.

10) I’ve never had problems with mice in my bee yard but if you have a local mouse population consider placing a mouse guard on this month. An inexpensive method is to reduce the current opening’s size, top to bottom, to 3/8 inch.

11) Attend your local monthly meeting. Volunteer to educate the public on the importance of honey bees by signing up to work a shift at the upcoming South Carolina State Fair booth. There you can network with other local beekeepers, share stories, and have some fun finding the queen and educating the public about our favorite insect!

12) Attend the South Carolina State Fair. Visit the South Carolina Beekeepers Association’s booth. Marvel at the beautiful honey display! Point out your prize ribbon to friends and family.

Honey Display

The above are general guidelines for the average bee colony in the Midlands of South Carolina. We all have hives that may be outperforming the average. We also have colonies that underperform the average. Use your judgement in making changes suggested here. Beekeeping is an art as well as a science. Only you know the many, many particulars associated with your physical hives as well as the general health and population of your colonies.

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Happy Birthday John S. Harbison, early Californian Beekeeper, Inventor, Author

29 Tuesday Sep 2026

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John S. Harbison

John S. Harbison (1826–1912)

Born: September 29, 1826 — near Freedom, Beaver County, Pennsylvania Died: October 12, 1912 (aged 86) — San Diego, California

Timeline

  • 1857 — Made the first successful shipment of bees into California, introducing commercial beekeeping to the state and laying the foundation for its honey industry.
  • 1857 — Invented the section honey box.
  • 1859 — Invented the Harbison, or California, hive; received a patent for the section box on January 4, 1859.
  • 1860 — Authored An Improved System of Propagating the Honey Bee.
  • 1860 — Helped organize the Pacific Apiarian Society, the first beekeepers’ association west of the Mississippi.
  • 1861 — Authored The Beekeeper’s Directory, a 440-page work still regarded decades later as one of the most practical manuals of its kind.
  • 1869 — Partnered with R. G. Clark to introduce beekeeping to San Diego County, shipping 110 colonies south by steamer.
  • 1873 — The firm of Clark & Harbison shipped the first carload of honey to cross the continent from California.
  • 1874 — Relocated permanently to San Diego with his family.
  • 1876 — Awarded a medal and diploma for his San Diego County honey at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia.
  • 1912 — Died in San Diego at age 86.

Frontier stock

Harbison came from people who had already done the hard work of settling a wilderness once. His grandparents, John and Massey Harbison, were among the first white settlers of western Pennsylvania, near Freeport on the Allegheny River, where his grandfather built and ran the region’s first grist mill — and where the family endured the raids and reprisals of the frontier wars along the Allegheny, Erie, and Ohio frontier. His grandfather fought in the punitive campaigns led by St. Clair and Wayne that eventually ended the fighting. On his mother’s side, his grandfather William Curry was a Continental Army armorer and one of Washington’s minutemen, present at the Delaware crossing and the surprise attack on the Hessian garrison at Trenton. It was a lineage built on showing up for hard, dangerous, foundational work — which is more or less what Harbison went on to do for an entire industry.

He grew up on a farm in Beaver County, and there is nothing in his early life to suggest beekeeping — the family trade, apparently, since his brothers William Curry Harbison and Andrew also became beekeepers and nurserymen.

Gold fever, then a nursery

In 1854, at 27, Harbison caught the same fever that pulled tens of thousands of young men toward California. He sailed from New York that October aboard the steamship Northern Light, crossed via the Nicaragua route, and connected on the Pacific side with the Sierra Nevada — filling in for the Yankee Blade, which had just wrecked off the California coast. He reached San Francisco on November 20, 1854, and went straight for the gold camp at Campo Seco in Amador County.

Mining, it turned out, was not for him. After a few discouraging weeks of hard labor and thin returns, he gave it up, moved to Sacramento, and took work at the Sutterville sawmill to get by while he figured out what he actually wanted to do. What he wanted to do was work with plants: he sent to Pennsylvania for seed and a small shipment of fruit trees, and by early 1855 had established the first fruit and shade tree nursery in the Sacramento Valley, at Sutterville. He followed it with larger importations from prominent Eastern nurseries in the fall and winter of 1855 and again in 1856 — stock that, by most local accounts, became the founding genetic base for the orchards that eventually lined the Sacramento River.

Bringing bees to California

Nurseries were a warm-up. In May 1857, Harbison went back east specifically to bring bees to California — an undertaking that had essentially never been done at commercial scale, since colonies did not travel well and no one had moved them across a continent and an isthmus. He left New York with 67 colonies and, after roughly a month in transit, landed them safely in Sacramento. The gamble paid off well enough that he repeated it again that fall with a second shipment, equally successful. He had, in effect, single-handedly founded California’s honey industry: before Harbison, there were essentially no managed honey bees west of the Rockies; after him, there was a state that would come to dominate American honey production for the rest of the century.

He kept the nursery and apiary businesses running together near Sacramento, and by 1870 his operation along the Sacramento River had grown to roughly 2,000 colonies — an extraordinary scale for the time, requiring a crew of hired hands to manage.

The business was not without enemies. Harbison had ongoing friction with fruit growers in the area — bees and orchardists have never entirely trusted each other — and at one point the tension turned violent: an entire apiary of his was burned, the hives doused in kerosene and set alight, a form of sabotage evidently common enough in beekeeping disputes of the era to have its own recognized method.

The section honey box and the Harbison hive

Harbison’s most consequential invention came in December 1857: the section honey box, a small removable frame that let a colony produce honey already packaged, cleanly and attractively, in a small salable unit — as opposed to the messier business of cutting comb out of a fixed hive body. It was, by the assessment of his contemporaries, the single most important innovation in comb-honey production of the era; he was granted a patent for it on January 4, 1859, and first exhibited section box honey publicly at the California State Fair in Marysville in September 1858. Two years later he built the section box concept into a complete hive design — the Harbison hive, sometimes called the California hive — which he described fully in The Beekeeper’s Directory in 1861. It became one of the very few hive designs, alongside the Langstroth movable-frame hive being developed contemporaneously in the East, to see wide standardized adoption, remaining the dominant design in California apiaries for decades.

Between the two inventions, Harbison also found time to write. An Improved System of Propagating the Honey Bee appeared in 1860, and The Beekeeper’s Directory — 440 pages covering the whole of practical bee culture — followed in 1861. Even a subsequent generation of beekeepers, writing decades later, considered it one of the most useful and practical manuals the field had produced.

In 1860 Harbison also helped organize the Pacific Apiarian Society, believed to be the first beekeepers’ association formed west of the Mississippi River — an early sign that he saw himself not just as an individual operator but as a builder of an industry that needed its own institutions.

San Diego and “King of the Beekeepers”

In the fall of 1869, Harbison partnered with R. G. Clark to extend the business into San Diego County, then still largely unsettled scrubland. The two men selected 110 colonies from Harbison’s Sacramento apiaries and shipped them south aboard the steamer Orizaba, landing in San Diego on the morning of November 28, 1869. Clark stayed on the ground, scouting the county’s canyons and mesas for the best forage ranges — chiefly the native sage that would make San Diego honey famous — while the partnership expanded with further shipments over the next four years. When Clark and Harbison dissolved the partnership in 1873, Clark took his share of the proceeds into the El Cajon Valley, where he planted the county’s first raisin vineyard; Harbison moved his family permanently to San Diego in February 1874, settling not far from the valley that would come to bear his name, Harbison Canyon, near the Sweetwater River about 23 miles east of the city.

The results of the Clark & Harbison venture were, by any measure, spectacular. San Diego sage honey developed a reputation that reached international markets, and the operation’s visible success drew a wave of new settlers to the county — many of whom took up land specifically to farm and keep bees themselves, on the strength of what Harbison and Clark had proven possible. By the mid-1870s Harbison was operating thousands of colonies across a dozen locations in the county and was, by some contemporary accounts, the largest honey producer in the world. In 1873, the firm shipped the first carload of honey to cross the continent by rail from California — a shipment that, within a few years, grew into ten-car honey trains bound for New York and made the Harbison name recognizable in Eastern markets that had never before seen San Diego on a map. Three years later, in 1876, his San Diego County honey won a medal and diploma at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia — the World’s Fair marking the republic’s hundredth birthday, and about as prominent a stage as American agriculture had at the time.

It was this combination — inventor, industry founder, and now the visible face of California’s most improbable export — that earned Harbison the honorific by which the beekeeping press knew him for the rest of his life: “King of the Beekeepers.”

Family and later life

Harbison married Mary J. White of New Castle, Pennsylvania, in 1865. They had three children: a son who died in infancy, and two daughters, including Florence, who moved with the family to San Diego in 1874.

He settled into San Diego life as more than a beekeeper — building a two-story residence at 12th and C Streets where he lived until his death, and investing in real estate, orchards, and a wholesale grocery concern, the Harbison Wholesale Grocery Company. He kept bees on a diminishing scale into old age; by the early 1890s he maintained roughly 500 colonies, mostly leased out to others to work, and at his death owned about 100. He died in San Diego on October 12, 1912, at age 86, having lived long enough to see the industry he had personally founded in 1857 become one of the signature agricultural products of an entire state.


Sources: San Diego History Center — John S. Harbison: Pioneer San Diego Beekeeper; Alpine Historical Society — John Stewart Harbison, Pioneer Beekeeper; East County Magazine — Historic Tale: John Harbison, King of the Beekeepers; John S. Harbison Papers, 1857–1920, Online Archive of California.

Source:
Image The City and County of San Diego: Illustrated and Containing Biographical Sketches of Prominent Men and Pioneers, Page 157, 1888
The ABC of Bee Culture, A. I. Root, 1903 page 415

Additional information here: http://www.sandiegohistory.org/journal/1969/october/harbisonimages/

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Out Yards and Bringing them Home

28 Monday Sep 2026

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Bringing them home from the out yard. It will take a couple days of moving to get all the hives back home. The first step was simply lightening them up a bit by pulling a box of capped honey off each hive. It has been a good year

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Beeswax Fair Entry

25 Friday Sep 2026

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So, I show my 15 year old son my State Fair wax entry which has taken me probably 8 pours to get at least good enough to hopefully not be disqualified. He looks at it and makes for the grab with his grubby, greasy, paws to inspect it. Having lived with him for 15 years, I head him off and swoop the wax away, right from under his grasp. Kids don’t realize we’ve been watching their antics from the beginning and possess parental clairvoyance.

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Bees Down by The Congaree River

23 Wednesday Sep 2026

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I have this theory. It’s about soil type, moisture, and water sources. These hives placed down by the Congaree River have all three.

 

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Beekeeping Vocabulary – “N” is for…

22 Tuesday Sep 2026

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Tulip poplar, Credit: Dcrjsr, Duke University

Today’s beekeeping vocabulary word is “Nectar.”

As is the case with many beekeepers, I sell honey. Mostly at farmer’s markets, food co-ops, and local events and festivals.  I am always amazed at the how eager people are to learn more about honey bees and beekeeping. But one thing that very often opens their eyes in a big way is when I mention that every drop of honey in my jars is from the nectar of flowers. “What, from flowers?” I gently explain that flowers very often contain a sweet syrup in them and that’s one of the things the bees are gathering. Almost everyone remembers childhood days of sucking honeysuckle flowers so when I mention this a lightbulb comes on for them. I sure do get a kick out the occasional person that has just simply never thought about it though. They usually walk away saying, “Wow, I never through of that!”

From Wikipedia:

Nectar is a sugar-rich liquid produced by plants in glands called nectaries, either within the flowers with which it attracts pollinating animals, or by extrafloral nectaries, which provide a nutrient source to animal mutualists, which in turn provide antiherbivore protection. Common nectar-consuming pollinators include mosquitoes, hoverflies, wasps, bees, butterflies and moths, hummingbirds, and bats. Nectar plays an important role in the foraging economics and overall evolution of nectar-eating species; for example, nectar and its properties are responsible for the differential evolution of the African honey bee, A. m. scutellata and the western honey bee.

Nectar is an ecologically important item, the sugar source for honey. It is also useful in agriculture and horticulture because the adult stages of some predatory insects feed on nectar. For example, the social wasp species Apoica flavissima relies on nectar as a primary food source. In turn, these wasps then hunt agricultural pest insects as food for their young. For example, thread-waisted wasps (genus Ammophila) are known for hunting caterpillars that are destructive to crops. Caterpillars however, do eventually become butterflies and moths, which are very important pollinators.[citation needed]

Nectar secretion increases as the flower is visited by pollinators. After pollination, the nectar is frequently reabsorbed into the plant.[1]

More here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nectar

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Beekeeping Vocabulary – “O” is for…

21 Monday Sep 2026

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This week’s vocabulary term is:

“Orientation Flight”

Age related tasks of honey bees culminate in foraging, this being the final group of tasks they perform before death. Although the starting age for foraging is variable, it commonly peaks in bees over 20 days of age. Until this point the bees that were mainly nest bound leave the colony to collect nectar, pollen, water, and propolis so therefore need to familiarize themselves with the landscape and landmarks outside the nest and the position of the nest entrance. They do so by taking orientation flights in the days preceding their first foraging flights. Young bees walk out of the hive, fly a short distance in front, turn by 180 degrees so that they are facing the hive, then hover back and forth in arcs. After a few moments the orientation flight becomes characterized by the ever increasing circles around and above the hive and after a few minutes the bee returns to its hive without carrying any pollen or nectar (Capaldi and Dyer 1999). The orientation flights tend to take place on warm windless afternoons.  Interestingly, on these flights, ‘foragers to be’ take the opportunity to void their feces, as they had not had a chance to cleanse previously (Winston, 1987).

Source and for full article: http://www.arnia.co.nz/honey-bee-orientation/

 

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Beekeeping Gloves

20 Sunday Sep 2026

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Blew the thumb out on the glove to the far left. Sad to see this pair of gloves go. But at least I still have the almost new, excellent, serviceable gloves on the right.

I’m unashamed of using gloves. I admit to moving too fast at times, going in when I probably shouldn’t, using too much or too little smoke, and otherwise making errors leading to stings. And I admit I don’t care for being stung.

Not to mention the black widow spider I find sometimes lurking under a hive stand.

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Two Takeaways from the Eastern Apicultural Society’s Summer 2017 Conference

19 Saturday Sep 2026

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Last month, upon returning from the Eastern Apicultural conference in Newark, Delaware, a friend of mine asked me what was the single most meaningful thing I learned. I sat there and a hundred things ran through my mind. I finally said, “Every day offered me new information and different ways to look at what I’m doing in the bee yard.” Now that I’ve had a couple weeks to process some of the material (I took about 75 pages of notes), I have two things that I’ll share here that I think are important for this time of year and going forward.

The first is the ever present focus on mites. Almost every lecture I attended, no matter what the title, mentioned the need to deal effectively with Varroa mites. It seemed like some of the speakers were somewhat apologetic regarding the historically cautious use of some methods used to kill mites. One speaker said the commercial beekeepers got it right by treating at select intervals between pollination contracts and honey flows to deliver 2 or 3 treatments a year to control Varroa levels. Hobbyists, instead, were told to monitor mites and treat accordingly. Add to that the sometimes cumbersome mite assessment methods and too many people simply did not treat at all leading to lost colonies and mite bombs for their other hives and their neighbor’s hives.

Another comment I heard more than once concerned mite assessment. Whereas in the past we assessed to determine the need to treat, now the focus is on assessment to determine if our treatments are effective. It’s now official, “You have mites.” The only thing in question is how many. Given that thresholds for treatment have been reduced over the past years, plus with unexpected mite bombs, it’s now prudent to periodically treat your bees for mites. The reason for doing mite counts now is to determine pre-treatment and post-treatment mite levels. And, you might ask, which is now considered the most important? The later, post-treatment mite level because if the treatment was not effective in lowering your mite level to an acceptable level then another treatment is in order. Without this post-treatment mite level you’re simply left scratching your head if your colony dies over winter. And if you’re pressed for time, as we sometimes are, and don’t have time for a pre-treatment mite count, treatment, and post-treatment count? Well, it’s not ideal and you won’t gather as much information, but the pre-treatment mite count is the first to omit if you must.

So, what did I hear mentioned regarding treatments? I was somewhat surprised at the number of speakers that said they were treating with Apivar (Amitraz), a hard chemical. Why were they using a hard chemical? The outstanding efficacy of 97 – 99% knockdown of mites along with no residual in wax seemed to be its primary selling points. It is a 42 day treatment and honey for human consumption should be removed. Additionally, speakers talked of rotating their use of treatments and not using the same treatment repeatedly. Oxalic acid is still a favorite and perhaps the cheapest if applied by drizzle during the broodless period. Randy Oliver and the University of Georgia are running trials on oxalic acid shop towels and if the results are favorable it is hoped EPA approval will follow. Other treatments are also considered and used based on the time of year, if honey supers are on or off, and dependent on temperature. Commercial operators also factor in the hive movements between crops, before or after spring splits, and other factors. It seems mite treatments are now a given and the only thing to consider is the time you can get one (or more) done between seasons, honey, broodlessness, the fall spike in mite populations, and pollination contracts. It’s a dance but a serious dance for those who make their living from bees and need to keep them alive and healthy.

The other thing I learned (remember I said I’d mention just two) is honey bee nutrition and its importance. When we think of feeding the bees we often think in terms of syrup and various concentrations of syrup. But pollen is where it’s at nutritionally. Poor quality pollen makes weak bees. Nutritious pollen from diverse sources makes lots of bees, healthy bees, and strong bees able to handle the many stressors bees face nowadays. Many years ago I sat in a nutrition class in college and my professor said in no uncertain terms that protein was the currency standard for nutrition. It seems that applies as well to bees.  Bees’ immune systems are compromised with poor nutrition. At the same time we see now, more than ever, they are faced with having to detox from man made and environmental chemicals. Only good nutrition provides them with the tools needed to keep themselves healthy, make strong future generations, and combat environmental stressors.  Of course, for the beekeeper, finding land with optimum forage is difficult but we must also do what we can to not overtax areas with too many hives while we seek out better environments for our bees or improve their current settings. While nutritional supplements were mentioned the jury is still out on some of these supplements. It seems good pollen is always a good choice. One solution is pollen harvesting during times of plentiful pollen. In response to the beekeeper trapping some pollen the bees will “assign” more pollen collectors to make up for the beekeeper’s trapping. The beekeeper can store the collected pollen for later use during those times when pollen is either of poor quality or during pollen dearth.  I’ll be placing pollen traps on some of my  hives this coming year. It should be interesting and if I have extra it will be yet another product of the hive for me to sell at market.

I really could go on for hours here. At EAS there are multiple workshops, lectures, and educational offerings going on simultaneously over the course of 5 full days and evenings. Often I would arrive at 7:00AM  for breakfast and not return to my dorm room until 8:00 or 9:00PM at night. It’s exhausting and exciting. I do recommend you attend one and here’s my surprise for those that have endured my article: EAS will be in Greenville, South Carolina in 2019! If you really want to experience a honey bee learning experience like never before make plans to be there. You won’t regret it.

For more information on EAS click here.

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Beekeeping Vocabulary – “P” is for…

17 Thursday Sep 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping vocabulary, honey bee vocabulary

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By Jessie Eastland – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=58944849

 

This week’s beekeeping vocabulary word is “Pollen.”

Pollen is collected by honey bees and other pollinators and used as a food source. In the process of these pollinators travels they transfer pollen from one flow to another thus satisfying the reproductive needs of plants. The result is the production of a fruit, nut, seed by the flower of the pollinated plant. It’s a symbiotic relationship whereby the bee gathers a source of food containing proteins, lipids, and vitamins and the plant gets successfully pollinated.

From Wikipedia:

The transfer of pollen grains to the female reproductive structure (pistil in angiosperms) is called pollination. This transfer can be mediated by the wind, in which case the plant is described as anemophilous (literally wind-loving). Anemophilous plants typically produce great quantities of very lightweight pollen grains, sometimes with air-sacs. Non-flowering seed plants (e.g. pine trees) are characteristically anemophilous. Anemophilous flowering plants generally have inconspicuous flowers. Entomophilous (literally insect-loving) plants produce pollen that is relatively heavy, sticky and protein-rich, for dispersal by insect pollinators attracted to their flowers. Many insects and some mites are specialized to feed on pollen, and are called palynivores.

In non-flowering seed plants, pollen germinates in the pollen chamber, located beneath the micropyle, underneath the integuments of the ovule. A pollen tube is produced, which grows into the nucellus to provide nutrients for the developing sperm cells. Sperm cells of Pinophyta and Gnetophyta are without flagella, and are carried by the pollen tube, while those of Cycadophyta and Ginkgophyta have many flagella.

When placed on the stigma of a flowering plant, under favorable circumstances, a pollen grain puts forth a pollen tube, which grows down the tissue of the style to the ovary, and makes its way along the placenta, guided by projections or hairs, to the micropyle of an ovule. The nucleus of the tube cell has meanwhile passed into the tube, as does also the generative nucleus, which divides (if it hasn’t already) to form two sperm cells. The sperm cells are carried to their destination in the tip of the pollen tube. Double-strand breaks in DNA that arise during pollen tube growth appear to be efficiently repaired in the generative cell that carries the male genomic information to be passed on to the next plant generation.[12] However, the vegetative cell that is responsible for tube elongation appears to lack this DNA repair capability.[12]

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Helpful Hints as You Prepare Your South Carolina State Fair Entry

16 Wednesday Sep 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beeswax, comb honey, education, honey, honey judging, state fair

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Entering your honey and beeswax in competition can be fun and profitable. The payouts for first through fourth place awards aren’t going to make you wealthy but that ribbon should make you proud of your accomplishment. Your honey will be judged by Certified Honey Judges, trained in the art and science of honey judging. Your entry speaks highly of your efforts to be recognized as producing a South Carolina beekeeping product that represents the very best South Carolina beekeepers have to offer.

Let me begin by saying I’m no expert. I decided to enter last year’s State Fair for the simple reason that I enjoy almost all aspects of beekeeping. Entering the fair competition was, for me, a way to explore another aspect of something I find rewarding. I had no idea I’d win anything; I just wanted to participate. After doing my research I found that the rules vary a bit from show to show but there are common threads that run throughout – cleanliness, consistency, presentation, and beauty. Your entry should reflect your pride in your product while following the presentation guidelines of the particular show.

Wax and ribbons

This article will attempt to explain how to enter your honey and beeswax for judging at the South Carolina State Fair. It is not all inclusive and the reader is encouraged to visit the State Fair website for particulars related to entry dates, categories, drop off and pickup dates, and other particulars. At the end of the article I’ll list important links to the State Fair and the entry department. Registration may be made either online or via postal mail. And the cool thing is it’s free to enter as long as you do so during the regular registration dates. This year Regular Registration begins July 1st and closes September 1st. You can enter after these dates (until September 16th) but there is a rather costly entry fee to pay for each entry during late registration.

The South Carolina State Fair accepts entries in the following categories related to beekeeping:

1 pound jar extracted honey (light)

1 pound jar extracted honey (dark)

1 pound Muth jar (light)

1 pound Muth jar (dark)

Pint jar extracted honey (light)

Pint jar extracted honey (dark)

Quart jar extracted honey (light)

Quart jar extracted honey (dark)

Pint jar extracted honey with comb (light)

Pint jars extracted honey with comb (dark)

Quart jar extracted honey with comb (light)

Quart jar extracted honey with comb (dark)

1 pound cut comb honey (light)

1 pound cut comb honey (dark)

1 pound beeswax

Also, dipped and molded taper candles, and molded ornamental beeswax have also been added.

Best Beekeeper Exhibit – The topic for beekeeper display is Honey Bees Contribution to our World.

Honey Display

That’s a lot of categories to enter. Wow! And most have 1st place through 4th place awards! Let’s get started talking about how you’re going to take home a ribbon this year!

Before we begin, let’s talk about your timeline. Decide now what categories you wish to enter. Calculate how much honey you’re going to be entering in this year’s State Fair. Do the math. You may find that you’ll need quite a bit of honey. After you determine the categories and the amount of honey you will be entering set aside an additional 25 – 50%. This will provide you with a margin of safety in case of a spill, you need to re-strain, and provides for loss due to pouring from one jar to another. Don’t worry about setting aside too much as it will still be saleable afterwards should you have more than needed. You just don’t want to run short as you prepare your entries – you want consistency in your show batch and that will be easier if you have a bit more rather than a bit less than you plan on entering.

Once you decide what categories you will be entering, register online or by mail. It’s free if you register before September 1st so why wait? Registering will also help you get mentally into setting your timeline of tasks for preparing your entries.

Tip: Fiona Apple sang a song titled, “Slow Like Honey” but you shouldn’t be slow getting started in preparing your entries. Honey moves slowly. Bubbles and foam rise slowly. The steps needed to produce your final entry will take time and your best entry will be one that’s not rushed. It’s one of those hurry up and wait situations. So get started now, be patient, then during the preparation period tweak your entry and progress towards your final finished product.

First let’s talk about those entries involving Extracted Honey in 1 pound, 2 pound, pint, and quart jars:

Extracted honey will be judged on:

Density – water content above 18.6% will be disqualified.
Absence of crystals.
Cleanliness of honey – Without lint, without dirt, without wax particles, without foam.
Flavor – ONLY for honey flavor adversely affected by processing.
Container appearance and cleanliness.
Accuracy of filling.

While all honey entered must be in glass jars, the 1 pound jars must be in Queenline type glass jars. There is also a category for 1 pound Muth type jars. These can be purchased at most bee supply companies. If you can visit a local bee supplier that carries them you should do so as this will enable you to select the clearest jar without flaws, bubbles, scratches, and other imperfections. At this point you may be thinking, “What does the jar have to do with honey judging?” and you’d be right to think this but remember your presentation is extremely important if you’re going to win against the best beekeepers in South Carolina. We already know you’ve got the best tasting honey in South Carolina, just like I have, but what sets dozens of excellent honey entries apart is going to be the fine points and that starts with presentation. Just like a fine dinner at a nice restaurant versus a trip to your favorite fast food joint, the experience counts. So, start with a jar as perfect as you can find.

Tip: Take that jar and wash it inside and out. Place it in the dishwasher and turn on the extra shine setting. Clean it and polish it until it shines inside and out.

Density – moisture content above 18.6% will be disqualified.
Your honey will be checked for density. Hopefully you remember from your beginning beekeeping class that honey should contain no more than 18.6% moisture. The USDA standard for Grade A and Grade B honey states honey should contain a solids minimum of 81.4% (or 18.6 moisture). All honey submitted for judging will be checked and a moisture content above 18.6 will be disqualified.

Tip: Check your honey before submission to ensure a moisture content of 18.6% or less by using a refractometer. I recently saw one on Amazon for $24.00 but I’m sure someone in the club will check your moisture for you if you don’t have one. A good rule of thumb is capped honey will be 18.6% or less in moisture so take no chances on the honey you’re going to enter by only using capped honey and you should be safe. Rationale:  Honey with lower moisture content resists fermentation. The best grades of honey will not ferment due to the lack of moisture.

Absence of crystals:

Absence of crystals in the entry will also be checked. All honey will crystalize given enough time. The ratio of sugars contained in the honey determines how fast the honey will crystalize. Depending on the floral source some honeys may crystalize in a matter of months. Other honeys may last a year or even longer. Other factors contributing to the crystallization process include the presence of particles in the honey such as pollens as well as storage temperatures.  The judges will check for crystallization by shining a light through the honey to detect minor crystals. Using last year’s winning entry would probably not result in a repeat performance as the honey will probably have detectible crystals. Rationale:  Although we know that honey can always be re-liquified, the lack of crystals assures the market customer that the honey has been properly stored and is fresh.

Cleanliness of honey – Without lint, without dirt, without wax particles, without foam.

Of course no one wants to see a bee body part floating around in their honey. But neither should you worry much about your honey not being ultra filtered either. Pollen is a natural component of honey and is expected. While the presence of naturally occurring pollen is expected, neither should your entry be hazy or cloudy with pollen.

Items such as lint, pieces of wax, and bubbles should be absent.

Tip: Don’t use cheesecloth to strain your fair entry. Start your straining with your standard stainless steel sieve using the finest mesh. Then allow it to sit for a few weeks so that any wax and particles rise to the top of the jar where they can be skimmed off. If you’re not pleased with the clarity an additional straining can be made using a lady’s stocking. Be cautious though as the fine mesh of the stocking can introduce very fine bubbles which will take some time to rise to the surface of the honey for removal. When straining honey let gravity do the work as forcing it through the mesh by wringing will increase fine air bubbles.

This process is going to take some time. Honey is thick and wax particles and bubbles move slowly. Ideally you should set aside your honey now to give it time to start clarifying. After giving it a few weeks you’ll want to open the jar and skim off the particles and foam. You may find you want to then do another straining through a lady’s stocking before pouring it into your specially prepared jar for your entry. Then you’ll wait again for bubbles to rise. Eventually you’ll be satisfied.

Tip: When you make your final pour into your presentation jar over fill the jar to within a quarter inch of the top. This will allow you to skim off any foam or pollen a day or two before you take your honey to the Fair. It will also allow you to remove that extra honey such that your fill line is perfect (more on this later).

Tip: Placing the jar on a window sill will gently warm the honey allowing bubbles and foam to rise a little faster and will reward you with seeing the honey get clearer each day.

Flavor – ONLY as adversely affected by processing.

You don’t get extra points for having the best tasting honey in South Carolina. Actually, some honey judging competitions do have a “black jar” contest where the honey is judged on taste alone. No doubt everyone’s honey is going to taste the best to them and it’s purely subjective so “black jar” contests are separate from standard honey judging.

What you need to know as far as taste goes is that you can lose points for “off tastes.” That is, if your honey has an overly smoky flavor from over smoking the hive when you pulled your honey. Or perhaps poor handling of your bee repellant when you harvested has caused an off taste. Another possibility is allowing your honey to sit too long before processing causing some uncapped honey to ferment which may have affected the flavor. Yet another reason honey can have an off taste is overheating in the extraction process. And if your honey has a taste of spearmint, tea tree oil, wintergreen, or lemongrass oil it’s going to be obvious your entry was adulterated with feed syrup. In conclusion, you won’t get extra points for five-star tasting honey but you can lose points for errors that may have affected the flavor of your final product.

Container appearance and cleanliness:

As already mentioned, the visual presentation of your product is important and reflective of the effort you have made to show off your entry. Don’t let even a speck of dirt escape your detection inside or outside of your jar.

But don’t stop with just polishing the jar, absolutely no fingerprints should be on the exterior or interior of the jar. Your lid should also be spotless without dents, scratches, labels, or signs of rust. Although any lid is allowed, a nice one piece lid allows the judge to easily remove the lid to evaluate the lid and the honey. I prefer white lids although I believe gold tone is also available.

Tip: Take an extra lid with you on the day you take your entry in for drop off. There should not be any honey on the interior of the lid. The steward receiving your entry understands this and will patiently wait while you change jar lids before submitting your entry. (Another method is to use plastic wrap between the lid and the jar and remove the plastic wrap prior to submission).

Judges will not disqualify a jar because of an air bubble (in the glass), but try to get the best jar without ripples, nicks, scratches, residue (stickers, honey, adhesive, finger prints etc.)

Also, if reusing a jar, make sure there are no lingering odors. On opening the jar it should smell like honey.

Tip: When entering pints and quarts show off your honey rather than the jar.  A simple, plain, thin walled (mayonnaise type) pint or quart glass jar allows your honey to be the star of the show.

Important: Do not affix any label to the jar or lid. Your entry will be appropriately marked with an identification slip when received by the show steward on entry day.

Accuracy of filling:

jar1It’s important that you give the customer their money’s worth. To that end, a standard has been set that will be judged in honey contests. A rough estimate is that your honey fill line should be above the bottom of the lid such that no air is observed when the jar is looked at from the side. Stated another way, no light should be seen between top of the honey and lid. Aim for a point at the bottom of the spiral that the lid screws onto.

Photo Credits: (left) Courtesy Southcentral Alaska Beekeepers Asso. (below) Courtesy Metro Atlanta Beekeepers Assn.

jar2

(Note that the jar on the right is not ready for judging as there are particles on the inside of the jar around the top. This should have been “cleaned up” prior to submitting it for judging.)

Tip: When doing your final adjustments use the bottom of a spoon to touch the top of the honey removing any floating particles. Also, use your spoon to clean the area around the inside and outside of the glass where the lid will be. The judges will note any debris inside or outside of the lid area.

End of section on Extracted Honey Entries

Let’s take a break before finishing up with the other entry categories. I’ll not give as much information on the following items for a couple reasons. First, the basics already covered are the same: cleanliness and adherence to the standard. The other reason is I have not competed in the cut comb or chunk honey categories. I have done some research though and will gladly share what I know. Additionally, I’ll be running this article by a couple people that have more experience than I for their approval before I distribute the article. And finally, I encourage you to do some research yourself. You’ll find that there is some variation between honey judging rules and guidelines although the basics are usually consistent.  Most of what you will find below is from the South Carolina State Fair guidelines.

Onward we go:


All Classes with Chunk Comb (light and dark – all entry weights)

Chunk Honey is cut comb placed inside of jars before filling the jar.
Neatness and uniformity of cut – Upgrade for parallel and 4-sided cuts; downgrade for ragged edges.
Absence of watery cappings, uncapped cells and pollen
Cleanliness of product – Down-grade for travel stains on comb, foreign matter, wax, foam or crystallization.
Uniformity of appearance in capping structure, color, and accuracy of fill.
One (1) piece of comb in jar.

Comb cut the right way up – it’s a fault to put it in sideways or inverted

(I’ve heard some people melt a bit of wax in the bottom of the jar to hold the chunk of comb down in the jar.)

Cut Comb Honey (light and dark)

Cut comb honey is comb cut from the frame. Foundation should be thin and without wire.

Entry is one pound cut comb.
Neatness and uniformity of cut, absence of liquid honey.
Absence of watery cappings, uncapped cells, and pollen.
Cleanliness of product, absence of travel stains, absence of crushed wax.
Uniformity of appearance.

Beeswax
Single piece, pure beeswax, minimum (at least) 1 pound (16 oz.) but not to exceed 17 oz. There is no standard for molds as long as the wax block meets the above weight guidelines.

The optimum color for pure beeswax is light canary to straw yellow. Wax should be clean, uniform in appearance, and have a pleasant aroma. Cracks, ripples, finger prints, or debris or shrinkage deduct from points. I’ve seen polished wax and unpolished. Last year’s winning entry was unpolished.

Preparation of beeswax for entry is challenging. It will most likely require multiple meltings and strainings for it to become completely free of debris. This can be accomplished using a double boiler or crock pot(s). Never place wax directly on a heat source as it will readily ignite and exposure to high heat can adversely affect the finished product.

I use a couple old crock pots I have acquired at thrift stores. In one crock pot I melt the wax and, using a ladle, I pour it through a coffee filter sitting on top of a metal kitchen strainer. As the melted wax filters through it drops into the second crock pot which is set on its lowest setting. Sometimes a couple filterings like this gets the wax clean but a lot depends on what condition the wax was in to start.

When pouring into the mold melt your wax using the least amount of heat possible. You want to avoid wide swings in temperature as the wax will shrink as it hardens and a wide temperature variation increases this effect. Also, try to let the wax harden slowly to minimize cracking and shrinkage. I pour my wax in my barn, which can easily reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit so it takes a while to fully harden. I usually keep an eye on it and as it cools and shrinks I add just a bit more melted wax to fill any shrinkage on what will eventually be the bottom of the wax block. Also, make sure your mold is level so that your finished product sits nicely on the show table.

Be patient, it may take several attempts to get a satisfactory block that weighs at least 16 ounces but less than 17 ounces.

Elsewhere on the web is this excellent, very detailed description on how to prepare wax for showing. Wax for Show By F. PADMORE

Best Beekeeper Exhibit

I would direct the reader to speak with Danny Cannon (Fair Booth Coordinator) at South Carolina Beekeepers Association for information on this entry. It involves a physical exhibit related to beekeeping. A beekeeping theme is presented each year. The topic for this year’s beekeeper display is “Honey Bees’ Contribution to our World.” Also, there is a space limitation of 3 exhibits. The Booth Coordinator must have you registered in order to exhibit your entry.

In closing, hopefully I have answered some questions related to entering and preparing your honey and wax for judging at the South Carolina State Fair. As I mentioned earlier, I’m far from an expert on this topic but felt the need to get some information out there for those that might want to participate in yet another honey bee related activity. Below are some links that you may find helpful as you further investigate various methods and try to reach for that perfect entry for this year. Happy beekeeping and I’ll see you at the State Fair!

Reference Links:

South Carolina State Fair Entries: https://www.scstatefair.org/competitions

Honey Judging and Standards by Malcolm T Sanford: http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/media/entnemdeptifasufledu/honeybee/pdfs/AA24800-Honey-Judging-and-Standards.pdf

Judging Honey by Dewey Caron: http://extension.oregonstate.edu/mb/sites/default/files/docs/breecec/Judging%20Honey%20by%20Dewey%20Caron%202015.pdf

USDA Extracted Honey Grades and Standards: https://www.ams.usda.gov/grades-standards/extracted-honey-grades-and-standards

USDA Extracted Honey Inspection Instructions: https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/Extracted_Honey_Inspection_Instructions%5B1%5D.pdf

Metro Atlanta Beekeepers Honey Contest General Rules: http://www.metroatlantabeekeepers.org/honeyContest.php

Eastern Apiculture Society – Honey Show Prep: http://www.easternapiculture.org/resources/honey-show-prep.html

Southcentral Alaska Beekeepers Association: http://sababeekeepers.com/DemoBooth.html

Showing Honey at Fairs by E.C. Martin: http://beesource.com/resources/usda/showing-honey-at-fairs/

North Bucks Beekeepers Honey Show Preparation: https://www.nbbka.org/honey/honeyShow/preparation.aspx

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Two Takeaways from the Eastern Apicultural Society’s Summer 2017 Conference

15 Tuesday Sep 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeper education, beekeeping, education

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beekeeping, education

eas photo

Last month, upon returning from the Eastern Apicultural conference in Newark, Delaware, a friend of mine asked me what was the single most meaningful thing I learned. I sat there and a hundred things ran through my mind. I finally said, “Every day offered me new information and different ways to look at what I’m doing in the bee yard.” Now that I’ve had a couple weeks to process some of the material (I took about 75 pages of notes), I have two things that I’ll share here that I think are important for this time of year and going forward.

The first is the ever present focus on mites. Almost every lecture I attended, no matter what the title, mentioned the need to deal effectively with Varroa mites. It seemed like some of the speakers were somewhat apologetic regarding the historically cautious use of some methods used to kill mites. One speaker said the commercial beekeepers got it right by treating at select intervals between pollination contracts and honey flows to deliver 2 or 3 treatments a year to control Varroa levels. Hobbyists, instead, were told to monitor mites and treat accordingly. Add to that the sometimes cumbersome mite assessment methods and too many people simply did not treat at all leading to lost colonies and mite bombs for their other hives and their neighbor’s hives.

Another comment I heard more than once concerned mite assessment. Whereas in the past we assessed to determine the need to treat, now the focus is on assessment to determine if our treatments are effective. It’s now official, “You have mites.” The only thing in question is how many. Given that thresholds for treatment have been reduced over the past years, plus with unexpected mite bombs, it’s now prudent to periodically treat your bees for mites. The reason for doing mite counts now is to determine pre-treatment and post-treatment mite levels. And, you might ask, which is now considered the most important? The later, post-treatment mite level because if the treatment was not effective in lowering your mite level to an acceptable level then another treatment is in order. Without this post-treatment mite level you’re simply left scratching your head if your colony dies over winter. And if you’re pressed for time, as we sometimes are, and don’t have time for a pre-treatment mite count, treatment, and post-treatment count? Well, it’s not ideal and you won’t gather as much information, but the pre-treatment mite count is the first to omit if you must.

So, what did I hear mentioned regarding treatments? I was somewhat surprised at the number of speakers that said they were treating with Apivar (Amitraz), a hard chemical. Why were they using a hard chemical? The outstanding efficacy of 97 – 99% knockdown of mites along with no residual in wax seemed to be its primary selling points. It is a 42 day treatment and honey for human consumption should be removed. Additionally, speakers talked of rotating their use of treatments and not using the same treatment repeatedly. Oxalic acid is still a favorite and perhaps the cheapest if applied by drizzle during the broodless period. Randy Oliver and the University of Georgia are running trials on oxalic acid shop towels and if the results are favorable it is hoped EPA approval will follow. Other treatments are also considered and used based on the time of year, if honey supers are on or off, and dependent on temperature. Commercial operators also factor in the hive movements between crops, before or after spring splits, and other factors. It seems mite treatments are now a given and the only thing to consider is the time you can get one (or more) done between seasons, honey, broodlessness, the fall spike in mite populations, and pollination contracts. It’s a dance but a serious dance for those who make their living from bees and need to keep them alive and healthy.

The other thing I learned (remember I said I’d mention just two) is honey bee nutrition and its importance. When we think of feeding the bees we often think in terms of syrup and various concentrations of syrup. But pollen is where it’s at nutritionally. Poor quality pollen makes weak bees. Nutritious pollen from diverse sources makes lots of bees, healthy bees, and strong bees able to handle the many stressors bees face nowadays. Many years ago I sat in a nutrition class in college and my professor said in no uncertain terms that protein was the currency standard for nutrition. It seems that applies as well to bees.  Bees’ immune systems are compromised with poor nutrition. At the same time we see now, more than ever, they are faced with having to detox from man made and environmental chemicals. Only good nutrition provides them with the tools needed to keep themselves healthy, make strong future generations, and combat environmental stressors.  Of course, for the beekeeper, finding land with optimum forage is difficult but we must also do what we can to not overtax areas with too many hives while we seek out better environments for our bees or improve their current settings. While nutritional supplements were mentioned the jury is still out on some of these supplements. It seems good pollen is always a good choice. One solution is pollen harvesting during times of plentiful pollen. In response to the beekeeper trapping some pollen the bees will “assign” more pollen collectors to make up for the beekeeper’s trapping. The beekeeper can store the collected pollen for later use during those times when pollen is either of poor quality or during pollen dearth.  I’ll be placing pollen traps on some of my  hives this coming year. It should be interesting and if I have extra it will be yet another product of the hive for me to sell at market.

I really could go on for hours here. At EAS there are multiple workshops, lectures, and educational offerings going on simultaneously over the course of 5 full days and evenings. Often I would arrive at 7:00AM  for breakfast and not return to my dorm room until 8:00 or 9:00PM at night. It’s exhausting and exciting. I do recommend you attend one and here’s my surprise for those that have endured my article: EAS will be in Greenville, South Carolina in 2019! If you really want to experience a honey bee learning experience like never before make plans to be there. You won’t regret it.

For more information on EAS click here.

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On Beekeeping Presentations

13 Sunday Sep 2026

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beekeeping, education, management, mentoring

Excerpt from Journeyman to Master Beekeeper Guidebook – Revised 2026

Presentations

Preparing for the oral and field master exams takes more than mastering the knowledge base — it takes the ability to present that knowledge clearly, logically, and in a way others can actually follow. There’s an old truth behind this: if you really want to learn a subject, teach it. Explaining a concept to someone else forces you to organize it, test it against questions you hadn’t considered, and find the gaps in your own understanding long before an examiner does.

So put yourself in front of an audience whenever you can. Volunteer to teach at your local club, speak at monthly meetings, staff a table at a farmers market or festival, and say yes to civic groups and school visits. Every one of these is practice, not a detour from it.

Starting now, treat every talk as your oral exam — the impromptu explanation at a farmers market, the crowd that gathers while you’re removing a swarm, the five minutes in front of your club, the school assembly. Present with the same clarity, structure, and confidence you’d bring to the real thing. Afterward, critique yourself honestly: What landed well? What would you explain differently next time? Where did you lose the audience, or stumble over a concept you thought you knew cold? And when it goes well, say so — recognizing what worked is how you learn to repeat it.

Do this consistently, and the oral exam stops being a single high-pressure event. It becomes just another talk — one you’ve already given, in one form or another, dozens of times before.

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Happy Birthday William Longgood

12 Saturday Sep 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping author, birthday, birthdays

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william_longgood

William Frank Longgood (1917–2000)

Born: September 12, 1917 — St. Louis, Missouri Died: August 9, 2000 (aged 82) — Cape Cod, Massachusetts

William Frank Longgood was a Pulitzer Prize-winning journalist, author, and teacher. Born in St. Louis, he spent most of his working life in New York, and only came to beekeeping — and to the book he’s remembered for by beekeepers — late in that life.

Journalism career

Longgood graduated from the Missouri School of Journalism in 1940 and spent the next two years in Niagara Falls working as a radio salesman and writer. World War II interrupted the career he was building: he served in the U.S. Armed Forces from 1943 to 1946. Afterward he returned to reporting, first at the Newark Evening News (through 1948), then at the New York World-Telegram, where he stayed for seventeen years, from 1948 to 1965.

It was at the World-Telegram that Longgood did the work he’s best remembered for as a journalist. In 1954 he won the George Polk Memorial Award from Long Island University. Then, in 1963, he shared the Pulitzer Prize for Local Reporting, Edition Time, with fellow World-Telegram and New York Sun reporters Sylvan Fox and Anthony Shannon, for their coverage of the crash of American Airlines Flight 1 into Jamaica Bay on March 1, 1962, which killed 95 people.

After leaving daily journalism in 1965, Longgood spent three years as a text editor at Time-Life Books (1965–1968), then taught writing at the New School for Social Research in New York from 1966 to 1972.

Books

Longgood was the author of seven books over his career, ranging well beyond bees. His 1960 book Poisons in Your Food was an early and pointed critique of chemical additives and antibiotic use in the American food supply — the kind of consumer-advocacy journalism that prefigured much of what would come later in the environmental movement. His 1972 book The Darkening Land documented environmental pollution and was well received critically.

Beekeeping and The Queen Must Die

Longgood came to beekeeping relatively late, well after his newspaper career had wound down, and it was this hobby — not journalism — that produced the book beekeepers actually know him for: The Queen Must Die: And Other Affairs of Bees and Men (1985, W.W. Norton). It is not a biology text, and it doesn’t try to be. It is a beekeeper’s meditation — part natural history, part personal essay — using the hive as a lens for thinking about mortality, order, sacrifice, and the uneasy parallels between insect societies and human ones. Reviewers and beekeepers alike have praised it less for its technical content than for the quality of its prose: it reads like a career writer’s love letter to a hobby he found late, written with the same eye for narrative and detail that had won him a Pulitzer decades before.

Here’s a nice review found here on WordPress by Bees with ebb:

https://beeswitheeb.wordpress.com/2016/02/21/the-queen-must-die/

He relocated to Cape Cod, Massachusetts in 1973, and lived there until his death on August 9, 2000, at age 82.

 

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The Great Reducer Rebellion — Or, How Not to Swap a Bottom Board

10 Thursday Sep 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping

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beekeeping

330px-Mårten_Eskil_Winge_-_Tor's_Fight_with_the_Giants_-_Google_Art_Project

Thor’s Fight with the Giants by Mårten Eskil Winge, 1872

Hehehe. I just came in from a walk through the bee yard, and I owe you an update — and possibly a search party for a hammer.

One of my hives lives off by itself, built up under a tree after I caught a swarm there this past spring. That hive grew so fast, so quickly, that moving it stopped being a simple weekend job and became a “someday” job instead. So it just… stayed. And grew some more.

The problem is what it’s sitting on. In a pinch, I’d set that swarm up on a bottom board I’d built for on-the-road captures — a thin sheet of lauan plywood screwed to a couple of spacers, with a 10-frame deep stacked on top. It was only ever meant to be temporary. It has now been the permanent foundation of a four-box hive for months, because I have known for a while that I needed to swap it out for a proper bottom board — some day.

Yeah. Some day never showed up.

But today, with a stretch of rain and general crappy weather finally behind us, I decided today was the day. Hehehe.

Now, the human mind is a curious, deeply persuasive thing, and mine knew better than to try dismantling a large, four-box hive on a damp day just to change a bottom board. So it did what minds do best: it negotiated. It swapped the real job for a smaller, more “reasonable” one — just slide an entrance reducer into place — and my mind convinced me this counted as real progress. The fact that it was still raining lightly somehow never came up in these negotiations.

Effort 1: I show up empty-handed except for the reducer. It’s too long. About five bees take immediate, personal offense and run me off.

Effort 2: I return properly dressed — suit and hive tool this time — and try again. The reducer jams sideways and won’t budge, even with the hive tool working it like a crowbar. Roughly twenty bees vote, unanimously, against reducers as a concept, and run me off a second time.

Effort 3: I come back in full gear — suit, gloves, hive tool, and now a hammer. Thirty-plus bees are waiting before I even get the reducer positioned. I set it and start tapping it home. Within seconds, fifty to seventy-five bees pour out to make their objection extremely clear. I set a new personal land-speed record finishing the install. Then, apparently under the impression this had become a biathlon, I set a second land-speed record sprinting back to the house.

Inside, I discover I’ve brought company: a dozen or so hardcore bees, still fully committed to the cause, riding along on my jeans, my suit, and my veil. I spend the next ten minutes evicting them, one at a time.

Final verdict: the reducer is in. The hive has been left to defend itself, as it clearly prefers. Lesson learned — they really didn’t need my help.

I do still wonder, though, where I dropped that hammer.

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Gray Squirrels and Pollen Feeders

08 Tuesday Sep 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, humor

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(Above)

Pollen substitute isn’t picky about who eats it — it’s protein, and protein is protein whether you’re a nurse bee building up winter bees or a squirrel putting on fat before the cold sets in. Hang a feeder full of the stuff outside a wood shop, and you haven’t built a pollen feeder. You’ve built a squirrel buffet with a “bees welcome too” sign.

They’re clever about it, too. They’ll perch right on the rim, work the powder with both front paws like a kid with a granola bar, and barely look up when you walk by with a hive tool in hand. And honestly, it’s hard to be too mad at them. Fall’s a hungry, hoarding season for every creature in the yard, not just the ones in your hive boxes. The squirrels are doing their own version of what the bees are doing — packing away calories now so there’s something to draw on when the temperature drops and the pantry gets thin.

The only real downside is math: a feeder of pollen substitute disappears a lot faster with a squirrel or two treating it like a standing invitation. If you’re finding your feeder emptied out faster than the bees should manage on their own, that’s your answer — and it might be worth a squirrel baffle or moving the feeder somewhere less shop-adjacent, unless you don’t mind sharing.

(Below) And here are a few pictures of this year’s effort. No squirrels this year after placing the feeders on PVC pipe and greasing the pipe. A little plastic protrudes over the opening to protect the pollen from any rain.

pollen1
pollen2
pollen3

 

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Beekeepers get ready for Spring in the Fall

05 Saturday Sep 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping calendar, calendar, management, sustainable

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Get ready for Spring!

Lots of articles speak to the beekeeping year beginning in August or early Fall. Yikes, that’s now!

If you harvested back in June, you’ve probably spent the summer feeding your bees through the dearth. If you held off and harvested now instead, you likely pulled less honey, but you saved yourself the cost and hassle of feeding all summer. There’s no wrong answer here — just two different paths to the same destination. And that destination is this: now is the time to build the best bees you possibly can for winter.

Get Back In There

I know it’s still hot. Get back into your hives on the next reasonably nice day and take stock. You don’t need to pull every frame and rile them up — a calmer, more targeted look will tell you what you need to know. Check for:

  • Capped and uncapped brood — a sign the queen is still laying well and the colony is still building population.
  • Pollen stores — protein for raising those all-important winter bees.
  • Honey stores — their fuel for the cold months ahead.

And don’t just look — heft the hive. Pick up the back of it and get a feel for the weight, then compare that feeling to what you actually saw inside. Do this enough times and you’ll start to know, just from the lift, what “heavy” feels like and what “concerningly light” feels like. That instinct will save you a lot of frame-pulling in the months to come.

The Fall Flow Is Coming

We’re on the cusp of our brief fall flow, and soon your hives will start smelling like goldenrod — a smell some new beekeepers mistake for something gone wrong. It hasn’t. That smell should put a smile on your face. It means your bees are packing away stores and raising the fat, healthy winter bees that will carry the colony through to spring.

Every hive will look a little different right now. Some of you will have more honey than the bees need. Others will be staring at frames of empty comb. Read your hive for what it’s telling you, and then — like an artist choosing tools — decide what that particular colony needs to be ready for winter: a super pulled, a frame of stores shared over from a stronger hive, or simply patience while the flow does its work.

Now Is the Time to Deal With Varroa

Most beekeepers assess and treat for varroa right after they pull honey, whether that was back in June or is happening right now. Whenever your harvest happened, don’t put this off. The bees your colony raises over the next few generations are the bees that set the stage for a successful winter — and mite loads compound fast this time of year.

Sickly bees raise sickly bees. Strong, healthy bees raise strong, healthy bees. You want the beekeeping equivalent of Arnold Schwarzenegger heading into January — because when it’s twenty degrees outside and the pantry is running low, that’s exactly who you want on your side.

For the First-Year Beekeepers

If this was your first season, take heart: most first-year beekeepers hit the real pinnacle of the hobby next spring. That’s when the population explodes on this year’s drawn comb, and the “problem” flips entirely — instead of hoping your bees survive, you’re racing to stay ahead of them. It’s a genuinely fun problem to have. The bees will basically be saying, “Scotty, give me all you’ve got,” and you’ll be somewhere between thrilled and panicked, saying, “Captain, I don’t think she can take much more — she’s gonna swarm!” (pardon the paraphrase.)

Back to the Task at Hand

All of that is a preview of spring’s problems. Right now, the job is building better fall and winter bees, one more time, before the long dull stretch of winter sets in. Around here, in the Midlands of South Carolina, fall days are mild enough for bees to fly — they just won’t have much reason to, because there won’t be much blooming. You’ll be the one stuck inside, wishing for spring, watching for that first red maple bloom, or leaning your ear against the side of the hive to listen for that low hum as the cluster converts honey into heat.

So get out there now. Assess your bees, and point them toward a hive packed with strong winter bees and full stores for the season ahead.

Go for it. Build better bees.

Picture: Early Spring bees. Notice no leaves on the trees yet.

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What the Hive Remembers and What You Don’t

04 Friday Sep 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping seasons, biography, outyards, South Carolina

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No bee that swarmed in June is alive by the time you write up the year in October. A worker bee in summer lasts five or six weeks; even the queen, who can live for years, wasn’t there for the swarm herself in any way you could call witnessing — she was carried along inside the cluster, a follower rather than observer. By the time you’re telling the story of that swarm at your bee club, every single participant except you has died of old age. The parent colony that “remembers” the swarm, if anything does, is not made up of any bees who were there.

And yet the colony does, in its own way, keep a record. Walk up to an established colony and you can read its recent history off the comb itself: the ivory new wax they built out in a good flow, the darker brood comb worked over years, the clean, glassy cells where they laid up stores against a winter that already happened. A forager who dies today has already passed her waggle-dance directions to the next generation of foragers before she goes. None of it lives in any single bee’s memory, because no bee has a memory that outlasts the season — the memory lives in the structure, in wax and pheromone and behavior encoded so thoroughly into the colony’s habits that the colony can lose every bee that was present for an event and keep behaving as though it remembers. A superorganism doesn’t reminisce. It just keeps doing what worked, materially, in comb, whether or not anyone in it recalls why.

You, on the other hand, remember the way people do — which is to say, badly, and only with effort. Everything true of human memory in general is true of a beekeeper’s memory of the bee yard in particular. The swarm you caught off the fence post gets, with each retelling, a little larger, a little higher up, a little more dramatic in the catching — the same mechanism by which the fish gets bigger, and the mountain gets steeper in every story anyone tells twice. You’re not lying. You’re doing what memory does by default, which is treat every recollection as a working draft rather than a locked file, rewritten slightly each time it’s pulled back out. A memory of a hive inspection is really a memory of the last time you told someone about the hive inspection — a copy of a copy — and if you never tell it, never write it, never pull it back out at all, it doesn’t sit in a drawer waiting. It fades, the way whole chapters of a life fade once there’s no one left to tell them to.

This is, it turns out, exactly the problem beekeeping used to solve for itself without anyone framing it that way. Before extension offices and YouTube and the online forums, what a person knew about bees came from an old-timer down the road who’d learned it from someone before them, told and retold at the hive itself — swarm season stories, wintering stories, the year the mites took half the county’s hives, all reinforced by repetition the way any oral tradition is reinforced, right down to reviewing each day’s words and deeds morning and evening before committing to memory rather than to paper. A bee yard, if you let it, works like a memory palace in the most literal sense — walk a familiar place in a fixed order, hanging each thing you need to remember on a particular snapshot or landmark along the way, and that is uncannily close to what a beekeeper already does without training for it, walking from hive to hive down the row, each box calling up what happened there last time you stood in front of it. The mentor who walks the row with a newer beekeeper, telling the story of hive four’s failed requeening as they pass it, is making memory a social, repeated, walked-through act rather than a private, one-time filing.

That kind of transmission is exactly what’s gotten thinner as beekeeping, like most things, has scattered into people who don’t share a bee yard with anyone who knew them starting out. A hive journal on an app can hold the facts a person used to only get by standing at the boxes with someone older who’d tell it to them again next spring, and it can hold them accurately, in a way retelling does not. But a journal can’t do the other job the old method did almost by accident, which is keep the knowledge exercised. A fact that only exists in a file, never pulled back out and walked through, is not so different from a memory nobody tells anymore — technically preserved, functionally dissolving, waiting in a dusty corner for a query nobody’s likely to run.

Which leaves the harder question sitting underneath all the record-keeping: if you took away everything you remember — the swarm, the bad mite year, the queen you watched get balled and killed by her own bees for reasons you never fully worked out — would you still be the same beekeeper? The colony wouldn’t blink at losing its history this way; it isn’t carrying one in the sense you are, and it replaces every witness to its own past on a five-week cycle without missing a step. You don’t get that deal. Whatever you are as a beekeeper is bound up, more than you’d like to admit under examination, in a set of reconstructed, embellished, quietly fading recollections of boxes that are mostly gone now, repainted, requeened, or dead-out and cleaned up years ago. The hive keeps its continuity in wax, which doesn’t lie but also doesn’t care. You keep yours in story, which cares a great deal and gets it wrong more often than the confidence in your own telling would ever let you suspect.

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Mentoring Cold Calls

03 Thursday Sep 2026

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Excerpt from Journeyman to Master Beekeeper Guidebook – Revised 2026

Mentor as Much as Possible

In anticipation of, and readying yourself for progression within the Master Beekeeper Program, make yourself available to new beekeepers, especially when something has gone wrong in their hives. These “cold calls” are as valuable to you as they are to the beekeeper you’re helping. Each visit is a chance to sharpen your own hive inspection routine, sharpen your assessment and diagnostic instincts, and get real practice reading a colony under conditions you don’t control — the same unpredictability you’ll face in your own advanced field exams. There’s no better rehearsal for that exam than doing it for real, again and again, on hives you didn’t choose and problems you didn’t stage.

Treat every mentoring visit as if you were delivering your field exam. Walk the site, inspect the hive, and reach your diagnosis and recommendations exactly as you would under evaluation — no shortcuts because it’s “just a mentoring call.” Then, after each visit, debrief yourself: How was your presentation? Did you explain your reasoning in a way the new beekeeper could follow and learn from? How confident were you in your read of the colony’s condition, and did your plan of action hold up? Where did you hesitate, second-guess yourself, or miss something you caught only in hindsight?

Over time, this repetition is what turns a competent inspection into a practiced one. Use every mentoring visit to refine your full routine end to end — site selection, exterior assessment, frame-by-frame reading, and the summary, diagnosis, and recommendations you deliver at the end — until it becomes second nature. The more new beekeepers you mentor, the more field-ready you become yourself.

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SC Midlands Beekeeping Calendar for September

01 Tuesday Sep 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping calendar, calendar, management, South Carolina

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astergoldenrod

Photo credit: https://chriscondello.wordpress.com

As always, All beekeeping is local. Here’s my offering for the beekeeping calendar for the South Carolina Midlands for the month of September: Plan on checks twice this month but do not work unless necessary to prevent triggering robbing.

September weather usually continues to be hot in the Midlands. Don’t expect extended cool weather until mid-October. In the meantime, slightly reduced temperatures may open up some alternative Varroa treatment options.

The main management issue this month is a continuation of last month’s focus on pest management. Pests are growing in numbers while bee populations are typically falling in response to a reduction in available nectar. Varroa, Small Hive Beetles, Yellow Jackets, and other pests can overwhelm a hive leading to decline. A weakened hive then becomes vulnerable to robbing and wax moths. The beekeeper must get ahead of the pests, as responding after a problem is observed may be too late.

1) Continue to monitor and control pests – Varroa, Small Hive Beetles, and Yellow Jackets. If you have not yet treated for Varroa now is the time to assess and act accordingly.

2) This year’s hive beetle population seems to be greater than last year’s. I suspect this is due to last year’s warm winter, increased rainfall this spring and summer, and overall supportive weather. Place traps or Swiffer pads in hives before you notice a problem. Check traps weekly and replenish or replace as needed.

3) Yellow Jacket traps with lure can be placed around the apiary. There are several low cost or no cost do-it-yourself trap plans online. If you see yellow jackets attempting to breach security at the hive entrance observe how your bees handle the situation. A strong hive will eject the intruder in short order. Keep hives strong by adjusting hive internal volume to bee population. Poor Man’s Yellow Jacket trap.

4) Depending on your location, some of these plants may have already bloomed. Rose of Sharon, Magnolia, Crepe myrtle, Sunflower, White Boneset, and Sweet Autumn Clematis. Cotton and Soybean is blooming east of the Midlands. Goldenrod and Asters begin to make their appearance this month. We sometimes get a short fall nectar flow. If we get a fall nectar flow you’ll notice a renewed vigor on the landing board and lots of pollen entering the hive. The smelly sock odor of goldenrod will be noted when you open the hive and sometimes when walking through the apiary.

5) Typically, no local Midlands queens are available in September. If you need a queen you’ll probably have to order one from out of state or buy one from a vendor that has ordered from out of state.

6) It’s crunch time to combine weak hives with strong hives. There is a saying, “Take your losses in the Fall.” Experienced beekeepers combine their weak hives with stronger hives knowing they can split next spring and nothing is lost. (Assess and make sure the weak hive is not weak due to disease before combining.) Better to strengthen a strong hive than allow the weak hive to perish. Use the newspaper method between boxes with slits to allow the bees to become accustomed to each other. Remove the weaker queen prior to combining. Note: Again, assess and make sure the weak hive is not weak due to disease before combining.

7) Use entrance reducers as appropriate. Many colonies have been bringing their populations down over the course of dearth period. Adjust their entrances accordingly. Addition of an upper entrance such as a notched inner cover is advisable prior to entering colder weather to allow for ventilation (cover with screen if robbing pressure is a concern).

8) Increase feeding this month to stimulate the brood rearing of nurse bees which will raise your winter bees. You may use a 1:1 mix during this time but nothing thinner. Coupled with autumn pollen flow this can give a boost to improving the quality of your winter bees. Some beekeepers begin the use of 2:1 this month. The decision is yours based on your assessment of your hives, their stores, and whether you think we’ll get cooler weather sooner rather than later.

9) Begin to tip colonies forward from the rear to assess their weight. Notice the number of frames of honey stores inside so that you can compare what you are feeling with what is actually inside. You will need this assessment skill during winter when you shouldn’t open the hives.

10) If not yet done, make efforts to bring all hives with extra supers down to overwintering configuration. For ten frame hives that usually means one deep and one medium OR three mediums. If you left an extra super on to feed during dearth, now is the time to remove it and any queen excluder used. If you have eight frame hives do the math to accomplish the same internal volume.

11) The occasional late swarm caught this time of year can be housed briefly in a box and fed. They will pull out some nice comb but anticipate combining them after a short while with an established colony.

12) Prepare your honey and wax entries for the South Carolina State Fair. Helpful hints can be found here.

13) Attend your local association’s monthly meeting. Volunteer to educate the public on the importance of honey bees by signing up to work a shift at the upcoming SC State Fair booth.

14) It’s September and time to start preparing for autumn! Enjoy the following resources as you prepare your colonies:
Fall Management by Rusty Burlew at Honey Bee Suite

Autumn Management In The Southeast U.S. by David MacFawn

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The Skip in Their Step: Rethinking Oxalic Acid Use

21 Friday Aug 2026

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping

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The story starts years ago when I noticed that the bees flew with more enthusiasm and worked harder in the days following a varroa mite treatment (oxalic acid vaporization). I asked others if they too saw this behavior change. Some said they never took notice; others said it was obvious. Years later I measured the coming and going on the landing board using one of those click counters. It was true; the bees were energized after a treatment. But I didn’t have the answer as to why. Last summer I spoke to someone more knowledgeable than I in entomology and he used the analogy, “Have you ever noticed how good a dog feels the day after a flea dip?” A great reply that satisfied me for a while. But I thought, putting a dent in a 3% mite load — not even eliminating the mites — couldn’t increase the entire colony’s enthusiasm as evidenced by the increase in activity on the landing board. Could it? Or was something else going on? But I’m getting ahead of myself.


Oxalic Acid as a Disinfectant

Back in 2021, I started doing some research and learned that the EPA first approved oxalic acid (OA) in 1957 as a disinfectant in bathrooms, swimming pools, and sewage and drainage systems, among other uses.1 It’s still used today in cleaning solutions for industrial food-production machines, not to mention good old Bar Keeper’s Friend. If you’re not sure of the definition of disinfectant, look it up — it’s different from a sanitizer, cleaner, or antibacterial. The EPA’s own regulatory definition of “disinfectant” does include destroying or inactivating viruses, not just bacteria.2 But here’s a wrinkle I didn’t appreciate until I went back and checked: a product can’t legally claim virus-killing power just because it’s registered as a disinfectant in general. EPA requires specific test data before a virucidal claim goes on a label, and oxalic acid’s original 1957 registration only carries data for bacteria and general germs — not viruses.3 So the “disinfectant” label tells me OA belongs to the right broad category of chemical, but it doesn’t, by itself, prove OA is killing viruses in my hives. That’s still my hypothesis to prove, not a fact I get to borrow from the EPA paperwork. Was OA also acting as a chemical scrubbing of the internal surfaces of the hive and the bees themselves? Was I killing bacteria and viruses as well as mites? I didn’t know, but I wanted to try a few things.


Starting the Routine Schedule

Over two years ago, in January 2022, I started treating my bee hives routinely with OA vapor — “routine schedule” meaning a set date each month on my calendar, similar to taking a blood pressure medication on a routine schedule, or a medicine for a chronic condition like diabetes or reflux. I think of it as an IPM treatment for mites and their accompanying viruses.


This isn’t as far a stretch as it might sound. In nursing, we’re taught to administer medications only after verifying the five rights: right patient, right medication, right dose, right route, right time. Applying that framework to pesticide administration isn’t a stretch either — both involve delivering a chemical substance to a living organism in hopes of a beneficial outcome. Physicians sometimes order medications on schedules that fall outside the manufacturer’s standard recommendation, tailored to a particular patient’s situation, and as treatment has advanced, we’ve moved toward managing chronic illness before it becomes acute — we don’t wait for the stroke or the diabetic coma before we intervene, and then discharge without ongoing management. We manage the disease continuously. I think we currently let our bees stay sick much of the time, performing sub-par, and only step in when they’re approaching the acute, terminal stage. I fully support not overusing pesticides in the hive — the reasons economic thresholds exist are good ones, and an overused pesticide breeds tolerance and becomes useless. But I think there’s a version of “right schedule, right rotation” that lets us manage the chronic illness of our bees without letting them get sick first.


My goals were to 1) decrease the number of yearly OA treatments and 2) reduce the likelihood of resistance to OA developing. Really, all I was changing was one aspect of treatment — the dosing schedule — from one that targeted the mites’ reproductive cycle to one that disinfected the colony’s environment on a regular interval. Any varroa mites killed in the process would be a value-added outcome.


That year I had no colony losses during the spring, and I made more honey than usual. I did have some colony failures (~10%) after the nectar flow during our dearth period, as is typical — multiple stressors (small hive beetle, harvest, and climbing mite-to-bee ratios) take their toll during that window as mite load climbs and viral load along with it. I intervened with a single series of OA treatments and the losses stopped, which pointed me toward mite/viral load as the most critical stressor. After that series, I resumed my scheduled monthly treatments and had no winter losses.


In January 2023, I continued the routine schedule and again had no losses during the nectar flow. This year I made a change for the post-nectar-flow period: a treatment every two weeks (the 1st and 15th) from June through October, adding about five extra treatments for the year — pushing me toward the edge of my own goal to limit total treatments. In November I went back to the monthly schedule. The result: no colony losses in spring, summer, fall, or winter of 2023. Honey production ran about 65 lbs. per hive, roughly 50% above what’s typical in the SC Midlands. Keeping bees healthy through the nectar flow keeps them working harder, rather than the more common pattern of letting their health decline over the season until they collapse just ahead of a “salvation” treatment.


That brings me to 2024. No mite or virus-related losses so far. Coming out of winter I saw the occasional weak colony needing a new queen or help with small hive beetles, but buildup was fast in the pre-season. I did my tax accounting and used less sugar last year, having left more honey on the hive thanks to their productivity (and my reluctance to pay for sugar). They’re healthy and handling stressors well.

What Research Actually Says

I spent some time this year researching organic acids as disinfectants and antimicrobials, and there’s real science here — organic acids can be antivirals, and it’s dose- and pH-dependent to a degree. A 3% oxalic acid solution, the concentration most beekeepers mix, lands somewhere around pH 2, though the exact number moves with concentration — straight crystals run closer to pH 1.5, and a well-diluted solution can sit up near pH 4.4 There are some unidentified factors at play too. A 2024 study in the journal Tropical Medicine and Health tested acetic, oxalic, and citric acid head-to-head against influenza, SARS-CoV-2, and feline calicivirus at matched pH levels, and found that acetic acid could inactivate the flu virus at a milder pH than oxalic or citric acid needed to do the same job — meaning virucidal effect isn’t simply a function of how acidic the acid is.5 That’s a nice confirmation of something I’d suspected but couldn’t fully source: the reason organic acids kill viruses, and which ones do it best against which viruses, is still something of an open question in the literature.


Where I have to be honest with myself: that research is about organic acids and viruses in a petri dish, not specifically about oxalic acid and bee viruses in a hive. I went looking for a study that would confirm OA directly suppressing bee viruses the way I’m proposing, and I didn’t find one that backs it cleanly — one field trial I came across actually measured viral loads (Deformed Wing Virus and Acute Bee Paralysis Virus) rising after an oxalic acid trickle treatment, right alongside a rise in the untreated control group.6 So this part of my theory stays a hypothesis, not a demonstrated fact, and I want to be upfront about that rather than dress it up as settled science.


Why is this interesting anyway? First, because it shouldn’t be working — one would think my colonies would be mite-ridden and failing, since this schedule gives mites more time between treatments than a reactive approach would. But I haven’t seen a case of deformed wing in years, and skewering drone pupae shows the mites are under control. Second, because mite levels are now out of the treatment-decision loop, I’ve stopped watching my bees decline before they trip whatever this season’s action threshold happens to be. Third, I honestly wouldn’t mind if my mite counts were high — it would confirm something other than mite-killing is doing the work. Fourth, I’m exposing my bees to the same amount of OA, or less, than a standard reactive schedule would use. Fifth, more time between treatments means less chance of building resistance — and it’s worth saying plainly that as of now there are no confirmed reports of varroa developing resistance to oxalic acid anywhere, which is a genuinely good track record compared to the synthetic acaricides.7 That said, extension entomologists still recommend rotating treatments as a hedge rather than relying on any one product indefinitely, so I’m not treating “no resistance yet” as a guarantee it’ll stay that way.8 Sixth, it simplifies a process that overwhelms a lot of new beekeepers — mite assessment, seasonal thresholds, choosing the right miticide for the month and temperature. Seventh, my bees stay healthy and productive all year, without the yo-yo of cleaning them up only to let them slide back toward collapse before the next rescue series. That yo-yo isn’t healthy living. We don’t let diabetics go into a coma before treating them, or let HIV patients run high viral loads before we intervene — we manage the illness rather than wait for the crisis. Our colonies don’t die from the mites; they die from the high viral loads the mites bring with them.


How is this working? My supposition is that I’m killing viruses, or a subset of them, directly — bypassing the need to fight the mite as a vector. Another possibility is that I’m interrupting the mite-virus relationship to the mite’s detriment. I don’t know which, if either, is right. It could be something else entirely that I haven’t considered.


The Breakthrough Thought — and Where I’ve Had to Pull Back

One thing that’s plagued me is that noticeable change in demeanor within a day or two of treatment — more energy, more intent, more enthusiasm on the landing board. It never made sense that killing some fraction of a 3% mite load would produce a colony-wide mood shift. My working theory for a while was that removing even a few mites reduced viral load enough to matter, since bees pass food and pheromone constantly through trophallaxis — if one bee carries virus, the whole colony is soon exposed through contact, grooming, and shared food.


I’d been citing a 2015 source that described oxalic acid as an antibacterial compound and framed mite reduction as a side effect of that antibacterial action. Going back to properly source that for this rewrite, I couldn’t relocate or verify the site, so I’m setting that particular citation aside until I can pin down where it actually came from — I don’t want to build an argument on a quote I can’t stand behind.
Here’s where I land instead: it’s reasonable to think that a monthly dose of OA is doing some general sanitizing of the hive’s internal surfaces and the bees themselves, similar to how a household disinfectant works on a countertop — and, notably, cleaning products with proven antiviral action against human pathogens are common and unremarkable. What makes OA unusual is that it can be safely delivered directly onto a living colony, which most disinfectants can’t claim. If the bees were living in an environment thick with viruses and passed constantly through trophallaxis, they’d plausibly feel run-down most of the time, the way we do with a low-grade infection — and a monthly disinfecting dose might give them room to recover between exposures. That’s a coherent hypothesis. It just isn’t a proven one yet, and I want to say that plainly rather than lean on the “disinfectant equals antiviral equals proven” logic I was using before — that chain has a real gap in it once you look closely at what the label was actually tested for.


One more correction I owe myself: I’d been saying bees don’t really have an immune system the way we do, and that most of their defense runs through the propolis envelope and nutrition. That’s an overstatement. Bees do have an individual innate immune system — immune cells in the hemolymph, defense proteins like phenoloxidase — it’s just a scaled-down one compared to solitary insects, carrying roughly a third of the immune-related genes some other insects have.9 What they’ve evolved instead is social immunity: propolis, grooming, hygienic behavior, all working alongside the individual system rather than replacing it. So “the colony’s immune system leans hard on propolis and nutrition” is fair; “bees don’t have one” isn’t.


On the mite-killing side, we still don’t fully know the mechanism — the EPA’s own label for oxalic acid says as much, listing the mode of action as unknown.10 We do know mite knockdown peaks within the first two to three days post-treatment, tapering afterwards.11 One open question I keep turning over: could OA be disrupting a symbiotic relationship between the mite and some other microbe, say in its gut, causing a slower die-off over those first few days rather than a direct kill? I don’t have an answer.
Using OA once a month shouldn’t promote tolerance, given it breaks down in the hive faster than the synthetic acaricides and there’s no confirmed resistance on record. I suspect it could be used more frequently than monthly, but once a month is the more sustainable choice for most beekeepers. If I were pitching this to a pharmaceutical company’s R&D team, the next questions would be the obvious ones: best dosage, best frequency, best route. My best guess is that vaporization is the right route, since it coats the entire interior with OA crystals; the right dosage is still undetermined and could turn out to be higher or lower than current guidance. It’s also worth noting the guidance itself has kept moving in a direction that makes this easier: the EPA cleared OA for use with honey supers on the hive back in 2021, reversing the old restriction,12 and more recently raised the allowed vaporizer dose from 1 gram to 4 grams per brood chamber based on research showing the higher dose is effective without harming the bees.13 Both changes make a routine, honey-season-friendly schedule more practical than it would have been when I started this in 2022.


One more thing worth naming: this experiment might produce colonies with higher mite counts that never get sick, which means future mite counts alone may not be the right barometer of success. Who cares if my mite counts run higher, as long as the bees stay healthy and productive?


Takeaways: Oxalic acid is unusual among disinfectants in that it’s safe to administer directly within a living hive. The benefit I’m chasing isn’t a lower mite count — it’s year-round, consistent colony health and productivity, instead of the current default of cycling between “sick” and “well” periods.
This honey season is off to a great start. All supers are already deployed, and I’m wondering how I’m going to keep up with giving the bees enough space now that they’ve gone gangbusters. Cheers!


Brief update, 7/20/2025: I’m just back from my state beekeepers’ association’s summer conference. Talk of mites always triggers a little guilt that I haven’t updated this in a while, so the effort continues. I’ve tried to maintain the routine monthly schedule, with some disruption during a personal health event. The healthy-bees, minimal-losses pattern has held — a near-perfect survival rate in the middle of record national losses across the US is rewarding to see. I don’t make it to as many conferences as I used to, but among the people I’ve shared this with, there’s a shared read that I may simply be keeping the viral threshold below the point where illness develops. Randy Oliver has written about colonies hitting a tipping point at a certain mite count, beyond which they’re doomed to failure — a framing that lines up with the broader consensus that varroa itself rarely kills a colony outright; it’s the virus the mite carries that does. I think that’s a reasonable read of what I’m seeing too — that the viral threshold is being held in check, by a little or by a lot, I still can’t say for certain.

Notes
U.S. EPA, Pesticides — Fact Sheet for Oxalic Acid (PC-009601): oxalic acid was first registered as a pesticide in 1957 for bathroom disinfectant use, swimming pool water systems, drainage and sewage systems, and eating establishments. epa.gov (archived reregistration fact sheet, www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/reg_actions/reregistration/fs_PC-009601_1-Dec-92.pdf) ↩
U.S. EPA, “Selected EPA-Registered Disinfectants”: a disinfectant is defined as a substance that destroys or irreversibly inactivates bacteria, fungi, and viruses on hard surfaces. epa.gov/pesticide-registration/selected-epa-registered-disinfectants ↩


U.S. EPA, Interim Guidance for the Evaluation of Products for Claims Against Viruses (Oct. 2024): registered products may not carry pathogen-specific efficacy claims, including virucidal claims, unless EPA has reviewed supporting data and approved the label language. epa.gov/system/files/documents/2024-10/11108-02_interim_virucidal_claim_guidance_2024_10_10.pdf ↩


pH figures for oxalic acid at various concentrations, per whatistheph.com/substance/Oxalic_Acid and completeera.com’s oxalic acid pH overview — undiluted crystals run roughly pH 1.5–2, with pH rising as the solution is diluted. ↩


Ogura, T. et al., “pH-dependent virucidal effects of weak acids against pathogenic viruses,” Tropical Medicine and Health (2024). Acetic acid inactivated influenza virus at approximately pH 4, while citric and oxalic acid required a lower pH for the same effect. pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10785384/ ↩


Field trial comparing oxalic acid trickle treatment to lithium citrate found Acute Bee Paralysis Virus and Deformed Wing Virus loads increased significantly in the oxalic-acid group post-treatment (loads also rose in the untreated control). PMC, ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9510912/ ↩


Washington State University Extension, “Oxalic Acid Options for Controlling Varroa destructor“: no reports of miticide resistance to oxalic acid to date. pubs.extension.wsu.edu/product/oxalic-acid-options-for-controlling-varroa-destructor/ ↩


NC State Extension, “Oxalic Acid for the Control of Varroa Mites”: recommends rotating treatments rather than relying on oxalic acid alone, even though resistance hasn’t yet been documented. content.ces.ncsu.edu/oxalic-acid-for-the-control-of-varroa-mites ↩


Honey bees innate and social immunity: bees possess hemolymph immune cells and defense proteins such as phenoloxidase but carry comparatively fewer immune-related genes than many other insects, relying heavily on social immunity (propolis, grooming, hygienic behavior) to compensate. See overviews at imanagement.ch (apisavoir.ch, “Social Immunity in Honey Bees”) and the review in Revista Mexicana de Ciencias Pecuarias, scielo.org.mx/pdf/rmcp/v10n3/2448-6698-rmcp-10-03-705-en.pdf ↩


U.S. EPA oxalic acid product label (EPA Reg. No. 091266-00001): resistance management section states oxalic acid’s mechanism of action is unknown. www3.epa.gov/pesticides/chem_search/ppls/091266-00001-20210430.pdf ↩


Honey Bee Suite, “Using Oxalic Acid Vaporization When Brood Is Present”: peak mite drops typically occur within the first two to three days of treatment. honeybeesuite.com/using-oxalic-acid-vaporization-when-brood-is-present/ ↩


EPA label amendment, effective 4/30/21, permitting oxalic acid use with honey supers on the hive. Reported via OxaVap, oxavap.com/information/, and MiteCalculator.com’s coverage of the label change. ↩


University of Florida IFAS, “Using research to change regulation: Honey bee research impacts EPA labeling” (2025): EPA raised the allowed oxalic acid vaporizer dose from 1 gram to 4 grams per brood chamber following UF/IFAS research. blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/news/2025/09/17/using-research-to-change-regulation-honey-bee-research-impacts-epa-labeling/ ↩

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Transforming a Vintage Beekeeping Machine for Better Performance

30 Saturday May 2026

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beekeeping, extracting honey, honey

She’s a brick—-house.

Scored this work in progress. Looks like an old hand crank model converted by some clever farmer to a motorized unit. Was under powered with 1/2 HP when I got her so I upgraded her to a 1 HP Ag use motor that I had sitting on a shelf. Now she spins like a champ. I can’t figure out how many frames she holds though. Looks like 4 deeps/8 mediums size but after I placed 8 mediums in the radial position, the basket still has room for me to place 4 more mediums in the tangential position. She’s functional now but still needs some rehab.

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I’ve stopped worrying about killing the vector and started killing the pathogen.

08 Monday Apr 2024

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antiviral, beekeeping, bees, deformed wing virus, oxalic acid, varroa, varroa destructor, virus

The story starts years ago when I noticed that the bees flew with more enthusiasm and worked harder in the days following a varroa mite treatment (oxalic acid vaporization). I asked others if they too saw this behavior change. Some said they never took notice; others said it was obvious. Years later I measured the coming and going on the landing board using one of those click counters. It was true; the bees were energized after a treatment. But I didn’t have the answer as to why. Last summer I spoke to someone more knowledgeable than I in entomology and he used the analogy, “Have you ever noticed how good a dog feels the day after a flea dip?” A great reply that satisfied me for awhile. But I thought, putting a dent in a 3% mite load (not even eliminating the mites) couldn’t increase the entire colony’s enthusiasm as evidenced with the increase in activity on the landing board. Could it? Or was something else going on? But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Back in 2021, I started doing some research and learned that the EPA first approved oxalic acid (OA) in 1957 as a disinfectant in bathrooms and septic systems among other uses. It’s still used today in cleaning solutions for industry food production machines, not to mention good old Bar Keeper’s Friend. If you’re not sure of the definition of disinfectant look it up. It’s different than sanitizer, cleaner, or antibacterial. So, is OA also acting in that manner in the hive? Is it giving the internal surfaces of the hive and the bees a chemical scrubbing? Am I killing bacteria and viruses as well as mites? I didn’t know but I wanted to try a few things.

Over two years ago (January 2022) I started treating my bee hives routinely with OA vapor. That’s “routine schedule” as meaning a set date each month to treat on my calendar. Similar to you taking an antibiotic on a routine schedule, or a medicine for a chronic condition like hypertension, diabetes, or reflux. Consider it an IPM treatment for treating mites and accompaning viruses. Also included in my goals were to 1) decrease the number of yearly OA treatments and 2) reduce the likelihood of resistance to OA. But simply put, all I was actually doing was going to be changing one aspect of treatment – the dosing schedule from one that targeted the mites’ reproductive schedule, to one that disinfected the colony’s environment regularly. Of course, any varroa mites killed would be a value-added outcome.

That year I did not suffer any colony losses during the spring, and I made more honey than usual. However, I did have some colony failures (~ 10%), as is typical, after the nectar flow during our dearth period. Multiple stressors (SHB, harvest, and climbing mite to bee ratios) take their toll during this period as the mite load climbs, increasing the viral load. I intervened with a single series of OA treatments and the losses stopped, leading me to believe the stressor most critical is mite/viral load. After completing the single series of treatments, I resumed my scheduled monthly treatments as before and had no winter losses. After the first year, I tried to make sense of that year’s interventions and outcomes and develop a plan for next year.

In January 2023, I continued my routine treatment schedule and, as experienced the previous year, I had no losses during the nectar flow. But this year I decided to make a change to the dosing schedule during the post nectar flow time period. I changed to a once every two-week treatment schedule (actually on the 1st and 15th) and continued this schedule until fall – so that would be twice monthly treatments June – October. This added about 5 additional treatments to the year which pushed me to the edge on my goal to limit the number of treatments per year. In November, I resumed the routine monthly schedule. This scheduling model resulted in no colony losses in the spring, fall, summer, or winter of 2023. My honey production was about 65 lbs. per hive which is about 50% higher than expected in the SC Midlands. Keeping bees healthy during the nectar flow keeps them working harder rather than our current method of allowing the bees’ health to decline over the season and often collapse just prior to treatment salvation.

All this brings me to this year (2024). So far, I have not sustained any mite/virus related losses. Coming out of winter I saw the occasional weak colony, needing a new queen, or help with SHBs. But my hives built up quickly in the pre-season. I just did my accounting for taxes and used less sugar last year having left more honey due to their productivity (and my reluctance to pay for sugar). My point is they are healthy and handling stressors.

Recently I spent some time researching organic acids as disinfectants, antimicrobials, etc. There are some studies on this with viruses. Yes, organic acids can be antivirals. It is dose and pH dependent to some extent. OA is around 2 on the pH scale so it’s potent. But there are some unidentified factors as well. For instance, acetic acid sometimes is more effective with certain viruses than acids with lower pH. So, the reason organic acids (and which) kill viruses still is somewhat a mystery.

Why is this interesting? First, because it shouldn’t be working. One would think my colonies would be mite ridden and failing. This OA dosing schedule should be allowing the mites too much freedom to reproduce. However, I haven’t seen a case of deformed wing in years and my skewering of drone pupae shows me the mites are under control. Second, because varroa mite levels are out of the treatment consideration loop, I no longer concern myself with watching my bees become increasingly ill before tipping this season’s / year’s suggested EIL level. Third, I could care less even if my mite levels were high. In fact, I would be happy to find they were as it would confirm what I’m doing is working by a mechanism other than killing mites. Fourth, I’m exposing my bees to the same or less OA than I would if I was using currently acceptable OA vapor treatment schedules. Fifth, I’m allowing more time between treatments which lessens the possibility of miticide or antiviral resistance. Sixth, after seeing many new beekeepers struggle with the myriads of options for mite assessment, the complexity of understanding mite counts during different seasons, and the best choice of miticide for each time of year and temperature, what a gift it would be to simplify this process. Seventh, my bees stay healthy and productive all year. Gone is the yo-yo of cleaning them up only to let them fall to approaching colony collapse before a lifesaving series of treatments. That yo-yo isn’t healthy living. We don’t allow diabetics to go into diabetic coma before treating them nor do we allow HIV patients to live with high viral loads. No, we manage these illnesses rather than wait for a crisis to develop. We should keep in mind that our colonies don’t die from the mites they die from high viral loads.

How is this working? My supposition is that I am killing viruses (or a subset of the many virus types) directly, thus bypassing the need for vector (mite) control. Another possibility is I am interrupting the relationship between the virus and the mite – to the mite’s detriment. But to be honest, I don’t know. It could be something entirely different that I haven’t considered. I’ll continue the effort and will start to compile the research and data I have collected.

This honey season is off to a great start. All supers are already deployed and I’m wondering how I’m going to deal with keeping the bees with enough space now that they’ve gone gangbusters. Cheers!

Brief Update 7/20/2025: I’m just back from my state beekeepers assocation’s summer conference. The talk of mites always triggers some guilt that I have not updated this blog entry in some time. So, the effort continues. I have tried to maintained routine monthly treatments although there was some disruption during a personal health event. The success of healthy bees continues with minimal losses. It is rewarding to have a near perfect survival rate in the midst of record national losses in the US. I don’t get to as many conferences as I used to but with those I have shared this effort with, the idea that there is a possibility that I am simply keeping the viral threshold below the point of illness development. Randy Oliver wrote some time back that at a certain mite count within a colony they enter tipping point after which they are doomed to colony failure. I think this is a valid explanation – that the viral threshold is possibly being held in check. By a little or a lot is unknown. If you have ideas let me know. larrycoble@bellsouth.net

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Uses of propolis

25 Friday Mar 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, hive products, honey bee biology, propolis

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propolis

The varnishing of cells?

Where does this get a mention? It’s in the study notes..

https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=J59OdJG05mUC&pg=PA289&lpg=PA289&dq=propolis+varnish+cells&source=bl&ots=wWcZEVXjSE&sig=xA3wPwE9dEx1IeRKw_fWmAxrFKI&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiahsn55p7RAhVhI8AKHS4_D3MQ6AEILDAD#v=onepage&q=propolis%20varnish%20cells&f=false

http://basicbeekeeping.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/lesson-113-sticky-subject-of-propolis.html

They asked lots of people too.

In Ribbands, Chapter 27, Huber (1814) observed that new combs become more yellow, more pliable stronger and heavier and sometimes there were reddish threads on the inner walls. Chemical tests showed this was propolis.

 

Source: Uses of propolis

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Swarms

23 Wednesday Mar 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping equipment, equipment, management, swarms

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beekeeping, honey bees, management, swarm bucket, swarms

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This week reports of swarms have increased indicating that swarm season has started in earnest. The flood of calls has yet to begin but will start soon. This picture, from last year shows a swarm capture utilizing my friend Dave’s combination arborist’s tree tool and a homemade bucket with paint strainer modification. These bees were about 28 feet up.

In the US, those interested in catching swarms should visit Bees on the Net which lists beekeepers willing to go out and retrieve swarms in their area.

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“At the Hive Entrance” free ebook

18 Friday Mar 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeper education, beekeeping, beekeeping history, beeswax, book review, honey bee behavior

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th

It’s time to start enjoying your bees!

Do you like to watch behavior? Are you itching for more during this “leave ’em alone” period of time after package installation? Okay here’s your treat. Recently a friend, posted a positive review about a book link she had read titled, “At the Hive Entrance” by H. Storch. It was one of my favorites when I started beekeeping. And it’s something you can do now – watch the hive entrance. Just place your chair off to the side of the front entrance about 6 or 8 ft. away and watch. After a few days you’ll start to see the routine of the bees. You’ll notice different pollens coming in on different days. Some days they’ll almost jump into the air on takeoff and zoom in on landings. Other days they’re a little slow. You’ll start to relate this to the temperatures, the flow, the season, and other things. You’ll get a feeling for the range of normal behavior (which also varies depending on seasons). In time, you’ll also notice behavior that’s not their norm which may necessitate an inspection. Which brings up the single warning about enjoying this book – it is only one factor in your assessment – entrance observation. If it looks like something unusual you may have to open them up to take a look. Enjoy.

https://breconandradnorbka.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/at-the-hive-entrance.pdf

Ebook is available via: Brecknock and Radnor Beekeeping Association

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Book Review: The Bee-keeper’s Manual, Henry Taylor

11 Friday Mar 2022

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beekeeper's manual

Source:

Bookish Chronicles
bookishchronicles.wordpress.com
 

The Bee-keeper’s Manual, Henry Taylor

The Bee-keeper’s Manual,

Or

Practical Hints On The Management And Complete Preservation Of The Honey-Bee;

With A Description Of The Most Approved Hives, And Other Appurtenances Of The Apiary.

This review was long due. “Review” would be a misplaced word here. How do you do a critical appraisal of a beekeeping manual written 166 years ago? A technical know-how book is hardly a thing of leisure reading, unless you have an inherent interest in the particular field. I don’t even do beekeeping; neither do I fancy myself taking up this occupation in the future. But this is precisely what is appealing about Henry Taylor’s The Bee-keeper’s Manual. To read the book, you don’t need to have an interest in beekeeping, just a healthy appetite for curiosity.

My curiosity in the subject of beekeeping was sparked when I read Neil Gaiman’s The Case of Death and Honey. Right after reading Gaiman’s Sherlock Holmes short story, I found The Bee-keeper’s Manual while browsing Project Gutenberg on a dull day at work. Enticed by the book’s fine Victorian woodblock illustrations (illustrator unknown) of beehives, I thought “Why the hell not?”

The Beekeeper’s Manual is about the art of beekeeping and not just the technicalities of the apiary—an occupation that needs a Zen-like dedication, for when dealing with bees, as the author says, “Entire quietness is the main requisite.”

Henry Taylor was an amateur bee-keeper extraordinaire. In his words, he took up bee-keeping to seek “occasional relaxation from weightier matters in watching over and protecting these interesting and valuable insects.” Following a friend’s request, he wrote the book as a brief practical handbook on the management of bees. The book must have been quite a success considering it went for six reprints.

Taylor starts off by introducing the poetic sounding Apis mellifica, the domesticate honeybee found in his native country, England. Although outdated to be adapted to modern times, the book covers every aspect of starting an apiary including, but not restricted to, how to deal with bee stings (in case you are attacked by a swarm of bees, stick your head into a nearby shrub). Clear and concise descriptions along with beautiful illustrations show how to construct different hives, protect the hives, manage the hives in different seasons, protect the bees from disease and predators and aid the bees in their work without annoying them.

Bees are sensible creatures. They follow a clockwork precision, yet adapt themselves to changing circumstances. Each bee has its function in the hive spelled out: build cells for the hive, nurse the larvae, lay eggs, and bring farina to make wax and honey, or impregnate the queen.

The last category of bees—the drone—is the most interesting one. The only job of the drone bee is to fertilize the queen bee. Once this is done, the drone bees are kicked out of the hive or killed. Although drastic, this is quite a practical measure from the perspective of space conservation. Additional cells are required in the hive for the larvae that the queen will lay. Also, the drone bees are pretty much useless after the breeding season, unlike the worker bee that works throughout the year. So, it is only prudent to do away with the unwanted drones than to construct new cells. Why carry the extra baggage?

During the swarming season (similar to migration session of birds), the combs in the hive are occupied by larvae. It is also the season when honey is in abundant. However, there is no room to store the collected honey. The bees can’t wait for the young ones to hatch and leave the hive. The flowers will wither and there will no honey to make. Te young bees can’t kick out too early, the brood will diminish. So how do to work around this dilemma? Although, preprogrammed by nature to work and live by a set schedule of weather, bees are clever little fellows. This is what Henry Taylor observes:

Mark the resources of the industrious bees. They search in the neighbourhood for a place where they may deposit their honey, until the young shall have left the combs in which they were hatched. If they fail in this object, they crowd together in the front of their habitation, forming prodigious clusters. It is not uncommon to see them building combs on the outside.

And they quite attached to their brood as well, especially the queen. As the queen moves around the hive, the bees show their affection by bringing their antennas in contact with the queens. She returns this gesture likewise.

She is the mother of the entire community, her office being to lay the eggs from which all proceed, whether future queens, drones, or workers. Separate her from the family, and she instinctively resents the injury, refuses food, pines and dies.

Henry Taylor’s humane perspective towards the bees makes the book a delight to read. The technicalities of beekeeping are quite extensive throughout the book. However, they are easily absorbed due to the author’s empathy towards his subject. Bees are just not the means to obtain an end product—honey and wax. They are “wonderful creatures” that teach “perfect organization and faultless adaption of means to an end, a lesson of humility; and finally, by the contemplation of their beautiful works.”

…How oft, when

wandering for

and erring

long,

Man might learn

Truth and

Virtue from

the Bee!

-Bowring

Source: The Bee-keeper’s Manual, Henry Taylor

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Happy Birthday Émile Warré

09 Wednesday Mar 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping history, birthday, birthdays, famous beekeepers

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AVT_Emile-Warre_7558

Abbé Éloi François Émile Warré ( March 9, 1867 in Grébault-Mesnil – Died on April 20, 1951 )

Source: Wikipedia

Abbe Warré developed the popular hive based on his experience with 350 hives of different systems existing at the time as well as on the natural behaviors of the bee .  In order to disseminate his works, he wrote several books: Health or the Best Treatments of All Diseases , Honey, Its Properties and Uses , Health, Guidebook for the Sick and Well- Being and especially the Most Important ‘Beekeeping for all’ , a new edition was published by Coyote in 2005. The previous edition was published in 1948.

Its goal was to obtain a hive closest to the natural conditions of the bee, while being practical for the beekeeper.  He preferred to make savings rather than profits and was looking for savings instead of productivity. His hive was thus based on a small financial investment for its manufacture and its exploitation. He hoped that everyone could have a hive and harvest honey without having to equip themselves with many tools of extraction.

Source: Wikipedia

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Ready for the Nectar Flow

08 Tuesday Mar 2022

Tags

beekeeping, management, spring buildup, spring management

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Bubbling over! These bees are overdue for some spring nectar!

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Posted by Beekeeping365 | Filed under beekeeping, management, nectar flow, sustainable

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Happy Birthday George S. Demuth

02 Wednesday Mar 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping history, birthday, birthdays

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Born on 2 Mar 1871 to Elias Demuth and Susannah Miller. Died 1934

Worked as a Apicultural Assistant with the USDA Bureau of Entomology. Wrote many pamphlets and books on honey bees.

Commercial comb-honey production / by Geo. S. Demuth.

Five hundred answers to bee questions pertaining to their behavior and relation to honey production.

The temperature of the honeybee cluster in winter / by E.F. Phillips and George S. Demuth

Wintering bees in cellars / E.F. Phillips and George S. Demuth

The preparation of bees for outdoor wintering / E.F. Phillips and George S. Demuth.

Comb Honey 1917

George S. Demuth is buried in  Spring Grove Cemetery, Medina. Medina County, Ohio, USA

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Balance in the Hive

28 Monday Feb 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping seasons, honey bee behavior, honey bee biology, management, seasons

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It’s spring colony splitting time and one thing we should keep in mind as we delve into the congested and complex  hive is having the correct balance of bees of various ages within the hive or split. An upset in the balance of bees’ ages upsets the proper functioning of the colony. Ex.: who’s going to clean the cells and feed the young larva if the colony goes queenless for an extended period and all of the bees have passed that stage in their adult development? Reversible? I wonder to what degree, and about the quality of work that can be expected from a bee that has passed it’s normal period for the work expected.

I’ve read below and elsewhere that there is some flexibility in the bees’ ability to move forward or backward in their age defined activities. However, the quality of the work suffers based on the bees’ physiologically ability to perform a particular task.

When making splits during the spring buildup there isn’t any difficulty finding brood of various ages so as to provide a split with a diverse population. Done well, a split hardly misses a beat and continues to grow and build effortlessly, while poorly configured splits struggle to get going and sometimes fail.

sipa

A simple diagram showing the life history of the honey bee worker.
The schedule of worker bee activities is both flexible and reversible, depending more upon physiological age than on chronological age, and is altered according to the needs of the colony. Diagram Source: Sipa Honey Bees

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Shallow frames in medium hive body, oops!

26 Saturday Feb 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, comb, drawn comb

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beekeeping, cross comb, drawn comb, spring management

shallows in medium box

Bees fill voids greater than 3/8″ (1cm) with comb. When not given a guide to work with they build it according to their own liking. Hence the marvel of Hoffman frames and hive designs that encourage them to build within the design guidelines.

I made this mistake last year, discovered it, and left it until this year. Somehow I placed six shallow frames in a medium hive body located in the center brood box position. On inspection last year I realized my error when I tried to remove the frames. Oops! Since last summer I have spent many sleepless nights tossing and turning anxiously awaiting spring inspections when I hoped the box would be vacated and I could remove it. Yesterday was the day and last night I finally had a good night’s sleep. 🙂 BTW: These bees get an F for maintaining proper bee space.

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Splits – Pushing for Colony Reproduction

22 Tuesday Feb 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, honey bee biology, honey bees, management, spring buildup

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beekeeping, honey bee biology, honey bees, management, spring buildup, spring management

img_3848

Not long ago, someone asked when we should start feeding the bees. The answer given was another question – What are your goals?

We want to building strong colonies but for what purpose? To catch the nectar flow? To make splits?, nucs?, or early pollination purposes? Each goal has a different start date.

Much of what we do with our bees involves looking forward. Last year I wrote a piece on when we should start the push towards building them up for purposes of capturing the nectar flow. Today, I’d like to think through another planning exercise for the beekeeper wanting to make strong splits from overwintered colonies.

I like bee math!

An experienced mentor and bee buddy of mine called me recently to ask if I wanted to order some early season queens. He caught me off guard just a bit because I really had not done my math homework for the coming splits season. Well, I’d better get hopping and decide if I’m going to order queens or make queenless splits.

And if I’m going to make spilts, when do I need to get busy?

Framing the issue:

We know from prior swarm seasons and winners of the “Golden Hive Tool Award” (given to the first captured swarm of each season) that swarming in the Midlands starts as soon as late, late February but typically early, early March and will remain strong for a month to six weeks into April then taper with an occasional spurts and sputters along the way.

We know that nature provides natural pollen and nectar for buildup in the Midlands around early to mid February (give or take). Some people see some earlier and this is climate and location dependent. So in nature we see feed for the bees a ~ month or so before swarming.

We know that the climate is still a bit dicey March 1st with occasional surprise freezes which could impact the survival of splits. I’m not sure I want to tempt Midlands weather.

March 1st looks to be an intersection between climate and colony readiness.

So, with natures help,some colonies are ready to swarm as early as ~ March 1. What constitutes being “ready?” Well, colony swarm preparations are a topic in itself but one hardwired componet is drone production. So we deduce that swarming colonies will have made drones ready to mate. I presume nature and the bees assume other colonies have done the same so as to provide some genetic diversity. But back to the point. If a colony is ready to swarm with ready drones when did they start those drones? The answer might help me as to when to start pushing buildup.

Let’s try to nail down a date to promote drone production by reviewing our bee math for drones: 3 days as an egg; 6 1/2 days as a larvae, and capped by day 10. 14 days as a pupa – 24 days. Right? Oh, but we must not forget that that drone is but a wee tot when he emerges and needs to get to “adolescence” to be ready for mating. That occurs after another 14 days give or take. Okay, I need to start making drones 38 days prior to making queenless splits. Right?… Wrong. Remember that if I make a split the bees will have to begin queen cells and we don’t need ready drones at the start of queen cells. We need them to coincide with the time it takes to make a queen and allow her to “harden” ready for her mating flight. Oh my, that probably negates some of my original calculations.

Nature tells me it will start making the splits for me (i.e. swarm) around March 1st. Let’s use that a date that nature chooses as the earliest date swarms are likely to survive and use subtraction to find the date I need to start building up my hives in order to maximize my success with queenless splits. March 1st minus 38 days leaves me at January 16th. I know this date as the birthday of Johann Dzierzon, father of parthenogenesis. (In animals, parthenogenesis means development of an embryo from an unfertilized egg cell. Ain’t that a coincidence?) But, as much as I would like to start pushing for drone production on Johann’s birthday, remember I need to deduct (or add back) the time for the colony to create a mating ready queen or approximately 20 to 24 days. My head is starting to hurt. Okay, January 16 plus 24 days = February 7th (or three days before Ormond Aebi’s birthday).

Isn’t it a curiosity that after all of my efforts and calculations result in a bunch of needless time wasting when mother nature gave me the buildup date to begin with – the bloom of Red Maples! That is, when the maples bloom is the start date when nature itself provides the necessary ingredients to maximize successful colony reproduction on a date conducive to climate and the impending nectar flow. You can’t fool mother nature. I’m exhausted but it serves me right. Beekeepers should probably reply to questions like this with bloom dates rather than calendar dates.

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Catching Honey Bee Swarms

21 Monday Feb 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, honey bee behavior, honey bees, seasons, swarms

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10999089_934961096534282_1393164301103624613_n

Swarm in Five Points

Our swarm season has officially begun here in the Midlands of South Carolina. Beekeepers, old and new, enjoy the thrill of the chase which kicks in the excitement factor associated with gathering a swarm.

So what does it take to catch a swarm? I was doing a quick search this morning to determine the ideal swarm catchers equipment list and I was struck by a web page I stumbled upon which detailed the swarm catching of a young sixteen year old making a few bucks while providing a valuable community service during the spring swarm season. What impressed me the most was the young man’s minimalist approach to necessary gear. Basically he had a cardboard office supplies box reinforced with duct tape with a makeshift screen for ventilation on the lid. His second piece of equipment is a plant mister/sprayer with some sugar water. Otherwise he wings it.

I have been caught out without any equipment while driving around and responded to a phone call unprepared, yet the property owner and I have found a box, a ladder, and a pruning shear to successfully capture a swarm. Once home it’s easy enough to put them into a proper box.

But let’s say you really want to gather a swarm this year and would feel more comfortable having a few items in your car or truck ready to make short work of almost any situation. What items are in the swarm catcher’s essentials bag? Well, probably a standard Langstroth box with frames on a ventilated bottom board. If space in your car or truck is a concern a five frame nucleus box (wooden or cardboard) will suffice. You’ll want to be able to keep them enclosed for the drive back so use some screen or otherwise completely block the entrance. Next is a mister bottle of sugar water to wet the cluster down prior to shaking them or moving to your box. Sugar water isn’t essential but the bees will stay together nicely and it gives them something to occupy themselves with while you work with them. Other items which the homeowner may not have available: ladder, pruning shears or loppers, small handsaw, bee suit, gloves. That’s pretty much all that’s needed to handle most situations. An extra suit is nice if the homeowner wants to get involved. Often they are interested and it’s a good time to do some community education.

Here are a couple links if you’re interested in gathering swarms. And also, if you think you’d be interested join one of the online swarm call lists to have your name out there for people in your community to call. Warning: It’s addicting!

How to Catch A Honeybee Swarm

Relocating Bees

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Lots to Do in the Beeyard

19 Saturday Feb 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, honey bee behavior, humor, management

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beekeeping, honey bee behavior, humor, management

11012250_10204623272476593_731496768_nThe first venture into the hives after winter is probably one of the most difficult and dreaded for me each year. The bees have burr combed up all my minor violations of bee space and propolized everything together such that my inspections never go quite as planned. Then there’s always that space between boxes where the bottom bars of the frames above become connected to the top bars of the frames below. The bees, having not been allowed much in the way of drone comb find this a great spot to build drone comb and raise spring drones. The hives in question today, that had been deferred ten days ago, reminded me why I didn’t really want to deal with them ten days ago as I should have.

But things must be handled and there’s always the knowledge that afterwards the hives are easier to work for the remainder of the season.

My first adventure today was into a well populated two story nucleus hive I overwintered. The bees objected somewhat but adequate smoke kept them in check while I rotated a full box off the top and replaced it with drawn comb and returned some of their stores. I was happy to get out of there though as I was spending far too long performing my tasks being a little rusty and not having every widget available as I normally like.

I did the same for several more nucleus hives and started in on the ten framers that still had feeding shims in place. That’s when the trouble started. Entire feeding shims filled with willy-nilly comb in all directions and filled with honey and drone brood. And black with bees covering everything and spilling out over the hive body edges and covering the underside of the inner cover. A little smoke helped move them but nothing short of a rap of the inner cover on the box dislodged them back into the uppermost hive body. Unhappy bees; unhappy beekeeper. Usually though they settled down shortly. Once I had to take a walk with them following me for 100 feet or so. I was probably not working them slow enough in the hive nor fast enough overall to get out of their domain. Get ‘er done, and I was almost there.

I had passengers (bees) in the truck with me as a drove away from the last hive. Windows down, suit on, and proud of myself having gotten the deed done without a sting through my glove or on top of my head as sometimes happens with the veil pulled down tight.

Oh, what’s that? A hive over by my main stretch of ten framers with it’s brick standing on end. Usually I use this brick position to indicate a queenless condition but I remembered from ten days ago why I stood it up then. The bees were too thick and they were too irritable to bother so I deferred and stood the brick up. Having completed all except this one hive I decided to stop and complete today’s task list. Only take a minute – probably.

The bees were still thick under that inner cover and they had the entire feeding shim filled with honey comb and drone brood. Most of it hung down off the inner cover. I smoked them down and waited. They kept coming back up in short order. As mentioned earlier, there tends to be an overall time limit for bees after which they just say, “You’re done here.” I was running out of time and knew it. I had a thought to go back to the barn and get a bottle of Bee Go to run them down out of that shim with its unpleasant odor. But my dilemma was time. Things weren’t going to get better in ten minutes. I was already taking a heavy bombardment of bees against my veil. I decided it would be best to shake the inner cover of bees into the shim and smoke them some more. After a couple shakes most of the bees dislodged and I was able to get the inner cover and the shim removed. I scrapped the honey and drone comb into a ready bucket and thought I’d better close up. Then, as one does when they are tired, a bad decision presented itself to me. While it’s good to know that I’m still capable of decisions at my age, bad ones just stink. I decided as I reached for the replacement inner cover that the bees were so thick I had better check for swarm cells between the boxes. Okay, that’s a quick hive tool between the boxes, a tilt upward, and I should be done – right? Well, there was drone brood between the boxes as I should have known, and maybe in my haste I forgot to smoke them down. Or maybe I did and they were so thick they had nowhere to go. I took my hive tool and scrapped the first top bar and my gloved had was covered. Second top bar and they have decided to cover my entire right arm. Third scraping and they are like Velcro on my jacket and veil. I can’t remember the final strokes as I was in get ‘er done mode. I did get the box down and in place when I started to feel the stings though my jeans and forearms. Oh my! Folks, when they decide they have no place left to light on you other than your jeans you’ve stayed far too long.

I started walking, stopping occasionally to brush some off. New beekeepers, remember I told you to buy a brush! I walked and walked and covered a hundred yards. Finally I headed back. I still had to replace the inner and telescoping covers. I did so and had to walk again with irritable bees. I had made every mistake I could have, overstayed my welcome by a stretch, rapid movements, and kept coming back when they said, “GO!” One last trip and I eased into my waiting truck and drove off fully suited with about twenty bees that decided it best they give me an escort.

Done but not proud of my finesse on this one. Maybe I’ll go back for my smoker later, or tomorrow. Wonder where my hive tool is?

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Happy Birthday William Z. Hutchinson

17 Thursday Feb 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, birthday, famous beekeepers

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william_z__hutchinson_apiarist_with_grandchildren

Birth: Feb. 17, 1851
Death: May 30, 1911

William Z. Hutchinson (1851-1911) was a 19th-century Michigan apiarist and author. He founded the Bee-keepers’ Review in 1888, and served as its editor over the remainder of his life. Hutchinson was an enthusiastic proponent of producing comb honey.

Bibliography

  • The Production of Comb Honey: As Practiced And Advised pp. 45. Flint, MI: Globe Print. House (1887).
  • Successful Bee Keeping pp. 16. Jamestown NY: W. T. Falconer Mfg. Co. (1897).
  • Advanced Bee-Culture: Its Methods and Management pp. 90. Bee-Keepers’ Review: Flint MI (1902).

Source: http://beekeeping.wikia.com/wiki/William_Z._Hutchinson

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Red Maple, Harbinger of Nectar Flow

13 Sunday Feb 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping seasons, seasons

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2015-04-12_16_31_55_male_red_maple_flowers_on_bayberry_road_in_ewing_new_jersey
2015-04-13_10_38_10_female_red_maple_flowers_on_madison_avenue_in_ewing_new_jersey

Red maple has started in various areas of the Midlands in South Carolina. Notice the difference in the male and female flowers.

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Secrets of Beekeeping

11 Friday Feb 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeper education, beekeeping, education

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“If beekeeping was easy I guess it wouldn’t be interesting.”

Reading the old timers’ beekeeping books from the 1800’s and early 1900’s I am struck with their struggles with wax moths and “disappearing disease.” It almost sounds like they are writing about today’s beekeeping struggles. We could say, “but we have mites” but then they also had the struggles of transporting their bees via horse and wagon so maybe beekeeping has always involved a bit of effort.

Books and articles written in the late 20th century talk about the additional problems encountered when tracheal mites arrived and later Varroa mites. These two pests caused many beekeepers to hang up their veil. But there have always been those that persevere through difficult times. And, ironically, some are drawn to the challenge.

I generally dislike articles written from the perspective of singling out a particular bad guy on the topic of current honey bee health problems. Instead I like those articles that state a problem and offer solutions that I can take to my own bee yard and implement. I know that commercial beekeepers take over two million hives to almonds every year which receive compensation depending on their grading. In Georgia, the package bee industry makes so many excess bees every year that it absolutely boggles the mind. My local association alone usually orders from four to five million honey bees each year – and we are only a single club. So, it can be done! I want to be like that guy with the extra bees and I’d like to see all beekeepers succeed with their bees.

Randy Oliver has said in “The Rules for Successful Beekeeping,” honey bees need four things: food, a dry cavity, help managing pests, and protection from toxins. That’s the proactive way of stating their needs and tells us what we can do to help them survive. (If your mind thinks differently he stated the same thing in a different article,  “The Four Horsemen of Bee Apocalypse,” but from the negative point of view,   what kills bees: famine, chill, pestilence, and poisons.) Randy runs about a thousand hives and sets up multiple experiment yards for his scientific studies. He knows bees.

It seems that thoroughly understanding the above four things that honey bees need might be the answer to keeping bees alive and healthy. The problem is each of these four items is accompanied by a lengthy list assessments, methods, timings, and manipulations. Instead of four things to remember I now have many. Not to mention I have to choose wisely among the many options to accomplish these four goals.

Soon after getting involved in beekeeping I got the thought that there might be some secrets involved to being a successful beekeeper. You know, like some sort of insider tricks which weren’t being generally offered in books and articles. I decided to start listening very closely when in conversation with successful beekeepers in the hope they’d let something slip. I checked my own thoughts and beliefs at the door and listened to them talk, hopeful of gaining a tip or trick here and there. Soon it started to pay off. Yes, there were tricks and tips that I hadn’t read about. For the most part these secrets weren’t really secrets though. They were methods and observations that worked to satisfy, “The Rules for Successful Beekeeping.” Some were old school and some were new school. And the jewels came out when least expected, sometimes during a lecture, in casual conversation, before or after a meeting, during a get together over dinner, or in a bee yard while tending the bees. There was no telling when one of these jewels would just pop out and a light bulb would light up in my head. As for the speaker, I doubt they were even aware that the casual bit of beekeeping wisdom or artistry they had imparted was exactly what I needed to hear at that particular moment.

“You must be present to win.”

In closing I’m going to share with you how you too can get the inside scoop on improving your beekeeping. Beekeeping is both art and science. You can read a lot of the science but successful beginning beekeepers learn the methods of successful seasoned beekeepers. And I’ll add that this goes tenfold over for beginning beekeepers. Go to the knowledge base of your club. They are talking bees before, during, and after every monthly meeting and if you’re not there you are missing information on the art of beekeeping you need now or will need later.

I’m still a long ways from being the beekeeper I want to be. I’ve got more things to learn – some from the bees and some from others. Ralph Waldo Emerson said, “Life Is a Journey, not a destination.” Pardon the poor paraphrase but for beekeepers, “Beekeeping is a journey, not a destination.” Enjoy the ride!

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Happy Birthday Ormond Aebi

10 Thursday Feb 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping history, birthday, birthdays

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beekeeping, beekeeping history

9780913300381-de-300Born February 10, 1916

Died July 19, 2004

Source: Wikipedia – Ormond Aebi

Ormond Aebi (1916 – July 2004) was an American beekeeper who was reported to have set the world’s record for honey obtained from a single hive in one year, 1974, when 404 pounds of honey were harvested, breaking an unofficial 80-year-old record of 303 pounds held by A. I. Root. Together with his father Harry, the Aebi’s wrote two books on beekeeping: The Art and Adventure of Beekeeping (1975) and Mastering the Art of Beekeeping (1979) (both currently out-of-print).[1][2]

He was known to have enjoyed beekeeping all his life. In 1981, Mr. Aebi told the Santa Cruz Sentinel[6] he knew his bees so well that, when out driving, his father would say, ” “Ormond, isn’t that one of our bees?,” and I’ll say, “No, I don’t think so,” or “Yep, sure is.”

Ormond told me a curious story that day though, which I’ll retell just as he told it to me. Ormond was a character with very strong beliefs, beliefs that I don’t happen to share, but he was earnest and sincere and his beliefs do make for a good story. So here it is.

He said that Jesus came to him in a dream one night and told him that if he wanted to increase the productivity of his hives that he should attach a wire to the queen excluders of his hives. Jesus was very specific about the length of the wire and Ormond carefully complied with Jesus’ instructions.

For those who don’t know, the queen excluder is a series of parallel wires placed closely together in a bee hive. It sits between the lower brood boxes and the upper supers, the boxes where the honey is stored. It functions to keep the queen from laying eggs in the boxes that contain the honey in them. She’s too big to fit between the wires, but the worker bees can still come and go unimpeded.

So Ormond attaches the precisely measured wires to the queen excluders and waits. Sure enough, just as Jesus promised in the dream, the productivity of the hives increases significantly.

Ormond is a religious man, and so he doesn’t think it is too surprising that Jesus’ advice worked. He mentions his experience to his beekeeping friends, and word eventually reaches the biology department of Stanford University.

Stanford University finds it surprising, very surprising. They come to his home in Santa Cruz to investigate.

What the scientists eventually conclude is that somehow the wires that Ormond attached to his hives were acting as antennae, turning the hives into natural radios and piping in the local classical music radio station to the hives. The bees loved it. (KSCO AM 1080, if you’re curious, it is now a right-wing talk radio station. I wonder what effect Rush Limbaugh would have on honey production.)[7]

In his later years he was diagnosed with Diabetes, which did not seem to affect his health, but did contribute to his decision not to continue beekeeping when his swarms were destroyed by varroa mites. He worked as a part-time handyman at a daycare next door to his home for the last several years of his life, and continued to write to friends he made worldwide due to his books.

Source: Wikipedia – Ormond Aebi

 

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The Russian Scion

20 Thursday Jan 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, equipment, honey bee biology, management, swarms

≈ 9 Comments

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bait hives, beekeeping, honey bee biology, management, scion, swarms

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Final stages of Scion creation.  Another coat of propolis, essential oils, and wax and it’s ready to hang.

After reading about the Russian Scion last year I have been eager to make and employ one in my own bee yard. Having used swarm traps with great success I know that swarms can often be retrieved before flying off. However, sometimes issuing swarms choose high branches or remain out of sight of the beekeeper. The scion adds another opportunity to the beekeeper prior to the swarm trap. Since I am home most days and walk my bee yard daily, hopefully I’ll be able to attract them to the easily retrievable scion, and hive them instead of relying on the traps which are also located on site. Below is a good post found on http://www.beesource.com posted by DocBB with some nice pictures:

I found a almost unknown device for us but which is of a common use in every Russian apiary is the “Scion” – (Привой и роевня)

It is a trap or a shelter to catch the swarm as early as possible without (may be) climbing trees.

Can you find it here on the plan?

There are many “designs” but it is commonly settled not far and in front of the hives entrances , one or several of them according to the size of the apiary

The traditional model is a 20-30 cm wide and 30-40 cm plank with one cleat fixed vertically in the middle , more or less rolled with burlap and coated with
alcoholic solution of propolis and flavoured with essential oils (lemongrass, etc.)

as on this blog

the “scion” is then hanged at around 2 to 2,5 m high.

It seems to work !

and the use of one or more old frame is not forbidden

or an old propolised burlap

Source: DocBB on www.beesource.com Forums

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Happy Birthday Johann Dzierzon

16 Sunday Jan 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, birthday, birthdays

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beekeeping

As many of my beekeeping friends might remember, I started December vowing to answer to, and identify myself as, “Lorenzo” to reservation takers, waitresses, and others. I am pleased to report that this has worked out well, with the exception of that overly serious State Trooper, so I am extending the practice another month. But Lorenzo Langstroth’s birthday month has come and gone and it is time to pick another beekeeper to honor. I encourage anyone so inclined to participate in this exercise of giving and responding to the name of a famous beekeeper for the month. Who knows when a question on the Certified Beekeepers test may become a simple remembrance due to your participation in this venture. So, with no further delay, during the month of January I will give and respond to the name, “Johann” in honor of Johann Dzierzon born January 16th, 1811. Apparently he also went by the name “Jan” so try each out from time to time to see how that flies. Try it out, it’s pronounced exactly as it’s spelled. Hey, I’m not sure it matters.

Below Source: Wikipedia Entry

Johann Dzierzon (16 January 1811 – 26 October 1906), was a pioneering apiarist who discovered the phenomenon of parthenogenesis in bees and designed the first successful movable-frame beehive.

Dzierzon came from a Polish family in Silesia. Trained in theology, he combined his theoretical and practical work in apiculture with his duties as a Roman Catholic priest, before being compulsorily retired by the Church and eventually excommunicated.

His discoveries and innovations made him world-famous in scientific and bee-keeping circles, and he has been described as the “father of modern apiculture”.

Scientific career

Stack of Dzierzon hives. Illustration from Nordisk familjebok.

In his apiary, Dzierzon studied the social life of honeybees and constructed several experimental beehives. In 1838 he devised the first practical movable-comb beehive, which allowed manipulation of individual honeycombs without destroying the structure of the hive. The correct distance between combs had been described as 1½ inches from the center of one top bar to the center of the next one. In 1848 Dzierzon introduced grooves into the hive’s side walls, replacing the strips of wood for moving top bars. The grooves were 8 × 8 mm—the exact average between ¼ and ⅜ inch, which is the range called the “bee space.” His design quickly gained popularity in Europe and North America. On the basis of the aforementioned measurements, August Adolph von Berlepsch (de) (May 1852) in Thuringia and L.L. Langstroth (October 1852) in the United States designed their frame-movable hives.

In 1835 Dzierzon discovered that drones are produced from unfertilized eggs. Dzierzon’s paper, published in 1845, proposed that while queen bees and female worker bees were products of fertilization, drones were not, and that the diets of immature bees contributed to their subsequent roles.[15] His results caused a revolution in bee crossbreeding and may have influenced Gregor Mendel‘s pioneering genetic research.[16] The theory remained controversial until 1906, the year of Dzierzon’s death, when it was finally accepted by scientists at a conference in Marburg.[12] In 1853 he acquired a colony of Italian bees to use as genetic markers in his research, and sent their progeny “to all the countries of Europe, and even to America.”[17] In 1854 he discovered the mechanism of secretion of royal jelly and its role in the development of queen bees.

Bust of Jan Dzierżoń, National Museum of Agriculture in Szreniawa

With his discoveries and innovations, Dzierzon became world-famous in his lifetime.[14] He received some hundred honorary memberships and awards from societies and organizations.[12] In 1872 he received an honorary doctorate from the University of Munich.[14] Other honors included the Austrian Order of Franz Joseph, the Bavarian Merit Order of St. Michael, the Hessian Ludwigsorden, the Russian Order of St. Anna, the Swedish Order of Vasa, the Prussian Order of the Crown, 4th Class, on his 90th birthday, and many more. He was an honorary member of the German Academy of Sciences Leopoldina. He also received an honorary diploma at Graz, presented by Archduke Johann of Austria. In 1903 Dzierzon was presented to Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria.[14] In 1904 he became an honorary member of the Schlesische Gesellschaft für vaterländische Kultur (“Silesian Society for Fatherland Culture”).

Dzierzon’s discoveries concerning asexual reproduction, as well as his questioning of papal infallibility, were rejected by the Church,[12] which in 1869 retired him from the priesthood.[18] This disagreement, along with his public engagement in local politics, led to his 1873 excommunication.[19] In 1884 he moved back to Lowkowitz, settling in the hamlet An der Grenze,[12] (Granice Łowkowskie).[20] Of his new home, he wrote:

In every direction, one has a broad and pleasant view, and I am pretty happy here, despite the isolation, as I am always close to my beloved bees — which, if one’s soul be receptive to the works of the Almighty and the wonders of nature, can transform even a desert into a paradise.[12]

From 1873 to 1902 Dzierzon was in contact with the Old Catholic Church,[12] but in April 1905 he was reconciled with the Roman Catholic Church.[12]

He died in Lowkowitz on 26 October 1906 and is buried in the local graveyard.[12]

Legacy

Dzierzon

Johann Dzierzon is considered the father of modern apiology and apiculture.[21] Most modern beehives derive from his design. Due to language barriers, Dzierzon was unaware of the achievements of his contemporary, L.L. Langstroth,[21] the American “father of modern beekeeping”,[22] though Langstroth had access to translations of Dzierzon’s works.[23] Dzierzon’s manuscripts, letters, diplomas and original copies of his works were given to a Polish museum by his nephew, Franciszek Dzierżoń.[9]

In 1936 the Germans renamed Dzierzon’s birthplace, Lowkowitz, Bienendorf (“Bee Village”) in recognition of his work with apiculture.[24] At the time, the Nazi government was changing many Slavic-derived place names such as Lowkowitz. After the region came under Polish control following World War II, the village would be renamed Łowkowice.

Following the 1939 German invasion of Poland, many objects connected with Dzierzon were destroyed by German gendarmes on 1 December 1939 in an effort to conceal his Polish roots.[10] The Nazis made strenuous efforts to enforce a view of Dzierżoń as a German.[11]

After World War II, when the Polish government assigned Polish names to most places in former German territories which had become part of Poland, the Silesian town of Reichenbach im Eulengebirge (traditionally known in Polish as Rychbach) was renamed Dzierżoniów in the man’s honor.[25]

In 1962 a Jan Dzierżon Museum of Apiculture was established at Kluczbork.[12] Dzierzon’s house in Granice Łowkowskie(now part of Maciejów village was also turned into a museum chamber, and since 1974 his estates have been used for breeding Krain bees.[12] The museum at Kluczbork houses 5 thousand volumes of works and publications regarding bee keeping, focusing on work by Dzierzon, and presents a permanent exhibition regarding his life presenting pieces from collections from National Ethnographic Museum in Wrocław, and Museum of Silesian Piasts in Brzeg[26]

More at: Source: Wikipedia Entry

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Ways to Succeed with your Bees

03 Monday Jan 2022

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, education, mentoring

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beekeeping, education, mentoring

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Several years ago, at the 2013 South Carolina Beekeepers Conference, I attended a presentation given by Florida Agricultural’s “Hall of Fame,” 3rd generation beekeeper, and recently passed away (February, 2022) Chief Apiary Inspector Lawrence Cutts.

The audience literally groaned as he described at length, one by one, all the negative aspects of beekeeping: the viruses, mites, increased costs, and various diseases. After each lengthy, gruesome description of a malady he raised his voice and proclaimed,

“Never before, in all my years, have I been so excited to be a beekeeper.”

Finally, after much more deliberation, he gave up the punchline: “Why be excited? Because never before in all my life has beekeeping enjoyed the attention it is getting today in the media and public eye.”

The point being, beekeepers are enjoying the attention and support as never before. Beekeeping organizations on all levels are being gifted with a wonderful resource of an ever increasing number of enthusiastic beginners eager to take on the tasks of learning both the science and the art of beekeeping. It is, indeed, an exciting time to be a beekeeper. Clubs and associations have won the lottery with the influx of excited newcomers and the many talents they bring to our organizations.

Can we as local and state organizations meet the needs of these beginning beekeepers and move them towards success in their new interest? Talking with some of our older association members, I’ve learned that at one time interest in local beekeeping was much less than seen today. Meetings were small enough they could be held in any small group room, and sometimes a beginner came. In those days a mentor usually coupled with a beginner and taught them the basics. I looked into this mentoring model of teaching and discovered that it wasn’t uncommon for a new beekeeper to visit the mentor’s bee yard for a season before getting their own bees. And once the mentee received their bees, either through a spring split or swarm the next year, they may have left them at the mentor’s bee yard over the mentee’s second year to work in the presence of the mentor with appropriate guidance.

Times change and nowadays we find ourselves needing ever more mentors to serve our new members. Ironically, as pointed out by Lawrence Cutts, the new beekeeper today has been drawn to a hobby that has increased in difficulty due to an increase in pests, chemicals, lack of forage areas, and increased costs.

Simply stated, the job of mentoring is getting bigger and bigger, beekeeping is ever more complex, and new beekeepers are joining and needing our support more than ever before. All the while, the need for mentors is far outpacing an ever dwindling supply.

To complicate matters, not only has there been in increase in beginning beekeepers, most new beekeepers wish to start their own hives the first year at their homes. I do find the occasional member that started by visiting a mentor’s bee yard for their first year, or spent a year attending club meetings and activities but that seems to be the exception to the rule.

This mentee/mentor dilemma needs solutions to help the new beekeeper become successful. While there are things mentors and clubs can do to help new beekeepers be successful, here I will focus my attention on the new beekeeper and their role in getting themselves through that first year and beyond.

Surfing the web, and various discussion boards, the prospective beekeeper looking for advice is repeatedly told, 1) join a club and 2) get a mentor. That’s good advice but it falls far short. Joining a club is great but sending in your $10 won’t get you any closer to becoming a better beekeeper. And just finding a mentor won’t either unless he’s a good friend or neighbor that’s willing to swap lessons for apple pies. First of all, the number of experienced beekeepers is far fewer than the number of new beekeepers. Add to that that most experienced beekeepers have bees to take care of themselves, limited free time like most, and finding one that is close enough and willing to teach a new beekeeper may be a challenge – finding one that has the heart and willingness to make home visits is like finding gold!

I’m going to suggest a new angle towards getting the new, prospective beekeeper everything they need to find success in this challenging mix of science and art we call beekeeping.

  1. The new beekeeper should find a local club or association and start attending meetings. Local clubs provide opportunities to learn. See if your local club is a fit for you. Are meetings educational? Is time made at each meeting to allow you to network to find a bee buddy or mentor? If you don’t feel it’s a good fit then look elsewhere for a club that fits or join multiple local clubs.
  2. Start your search for a good beginning beekeeper class. Half-day or single day classes are good for determining if beekeeping is something you’d like to learn. Better introductory beekeeping classes span multiple evenings or weekends and offer or encourage Master Beekeeping Program Certified testing. If you’re more advanced look for a club that provides intermediate level topics at meetings or pushes their members towards Journeyman level material and courses. If your local club minimizes education, look for a class at the next closest club and attend their meetings too. The drive may be worthwhile.
  3. Sign up and take the next beginning beekeeper class offered. Read the handouts; read the book. Don’t be satisfied to be spoon fed the information and don’t limit yourself to only the information in the class. Consider this class your toe in the door, your introduction, the beginning of your adventure. Beekeeping is challenging with a steep and expensive learning curve; challenge yourself to learn this craft.
  4. Visit your local library and check out books on beekeeping. You will find some entertaining, some are scientific, and some histories. Read all that you find helpful.
  5. Decide right now that coming to monthly meetings is an important part of your continuing beekeeping education. Monthly meetings are opportunities to learn. Miss one at your own risk. Many club meeting topics follow the bee’s annual cycle through the seasons. Important things to do and observe are discussed at meetings. The meeting you miss may be the one that offers the information you needed to hear that month.
  6. Volunteer for club activities. Club activities are opportunities to learn. If your club offers community outreach at festivals and events talk to your club’s event coordinator. Volunteer to work with someone else “talking bees” with the public. If you took the beginning beekeeper class you know 100% more than the general population. Listen to the experienced volunteer you are paired with and learn from them. Talk with them during breaks. If you enjoy speaking to children there is real need to visit with elementary classes. Senior centers also appreciate visits and often contact clubs to schedule brief talks.
  7. Watch your bees. Even if you aren’t going inside the hive. Get a chair and sit and watch them coming and going. Soak it in. At first you’ll not have anything to compare their coming and going with. As the seasons progress, nectar flows begin and end, temperatures change, their behavior will change as well. Soon you will notice subtle changes in their behavior on the landing board. With time you’ll know when something’s wrong and needs further inspection – just by watching them.
  8. If your club has social events like pre meeting dinners, occasional social events, or days in the bee yard, attend them. Club social events are opportunities to learn and meet other beekeepers. Beekeepers tend to want to talk about bees – exhaustively. Only other beekeepers want to talk about bees as much as you. You will learn a lot talking with others at these events. Bee social. Network.
  9. Find a bee buddy. A bee buddy may be another first year beekeeper in your neighborhood or a second year beekeeper that lives close by. Your bee buddy is the one you call when your hive swarms and you need to borrow a box. A bee buddy is someone to visit and look at their hives; they come over and look at yours too. Bee buddies show you how to do new things with your bees. Find a bee buddy at meetings, events, or during meeting fellowship time.
  10. Enter your hives as often as is prudent. During some seasons the bees are docile and tolerant of your intrusions. In the spring visit them often – even every week. When you enter the hive go in with an idea of what you wish to accomplish in mind. What do you want to observe? The first few times you will be so filled with excitement you’ll forget to look for those things you set as your goal. That’s okay, look on your next visit. There are other seasons when the bees are best left alone such as when they are arranging and securing their winter home or during colder months. Take every opportunity to observe them.
  11. Join your club’s online discussion group if it has one. You’ll find quick answers to questions you have. Often a photo and description to the group will result in helpful responses or allay your anxiety about something you’ve never seen before. If you do have an emergency often a club member can swing by after work and take a look. Both girls and guys participate in forums and sometimes you find that you’re neighbors!
  12. Read your club’s newsletter. Local happenings are listed. Important dates too. Sale ads and articles of interest as well as your club’s minutes, scheduled speakers and topics keep you informed. Often the club will have an article or beekeeping calendar directly related to seasonal beekeeping letting you know what to observe and do in your hives that month.
  13. Attend local educational offerings. Local educational offerings are opportunities to learn. Some clubs  bring in out-of-town speakers for special topics of interest. Other times clubs or local beekeepers offer day classes on specific topics of interest: Queen rearing, Moving hives, Making Splits, Africanized bees, oh my!
  14. Attend state conferences. Conferences are opportunities to learn. Even if you can’t stay for two and a half days, at least go for a single day. The information you hear will be from seasoned beekeepers and scholars in bee research from around the country. They have a knack for breaking it down for us simple beekeepers though so it all works out. Have lunch with fellow beekeepers. If you overnight, find out where your club or neighboring club will be having dinner and socialize. Carpool with your bee buddy. Hang out in the hotel lobby and talk bees until late.
  15. You may never need  if you’re doing all of the above, but if you do: Email your club’s Secretary to see if a bee buddy or mentor lives close to you. Preferably one that also attends meetings. Sit with them, or watch and listen to them teach at the front of the room. If you don’t understand something ask after the meeting. Offer to help do hard work like pulling supers, rotating boxes, or extracting honey. Tell them you’ll gladly help with their next swarm retrieval. Ask them tough questions that show your enthusiasm and that you’re making every effort to learn. If they know you’re dedicated to learning, attending, and making an effort it makes all the difference in the world.
  16. Set high goals for yourself; going from mentee to mentor. Take on the challenge of the Master Beekeeping Program which will guide you to becoming a better beekeeper. After your beginning course, take the Certified level testing. After a period of time you will feel more comfortable with your beekeeping and should take the next step towards Journeyman Certification. Become a mentor by volunteering as a club officer, presenting at a club event, or taking on a mentee yourself. Teaching and serving is an educational opportunity for you as well as for others. It’s also your opportunity to give back and grow from mentee to mentor in whatever job role you feel comfortable.

In the end it’s all about learning about bees, their biology, behavior, and management. Along with that come the seasons, foliage, the bees’ cousins, and foes. Beekeeping is both fun and challenging. It’s learning the biology of animal husbandry along with the age old craft of keeping bees. The new beekeeper that wants to succeed should throw themselves into learning this craft by taking advantage of every opportunity that presents itself rather than assume it will come as a result of passive learning. Today’s prospective beekeeper has more resources that ever before: monthly meetings, progressive educational offerings, club outreach opportunities, fellowship, books, YouTube videos, discussion groups, conferences, and more. Take advantage of every offering available and you will succeed. Now, get to a meeting!

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Lorenzo Langstroth’s Birthday

25 Saturday Dec 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping equipment, beekeeping history, birthday

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beekeeping, beekeeping books, beekeeping history, birthday, famous beekeepers, Langstroth, Lorenzo Langstroth's birthday, The Hive and the Honey Bee

toast to langstroth

A Toast to Langstroth

This year, beekeepers are celebrating the 213th year anniversary of “the Father of American Beekeeping.” Lorenzo Lorraine Langstroth was born Christmas Day, December 25, 1810 in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. L. L. Langstroth developed the modern hive after exploring existing hives including the pre-cursor to the top bar hive. Francis Huber invented the Leaf Hive in 1789 in Switzerland. The leaf hive had movable solid frames that touched making the box like top bar hives. The leaf hive was examined like pages in a book.

(photo: In 2010 the Philadelphia Beekeepers Guild began a wonderful Christmas tradition. They gather each year at 106 South Front Street, Philadelphia; the birthplace of Lorenzo L. Langstroth on Christmas Day, which is also Langstroth’s birthday, for a Champagne / mead toast to Langstroth.) A Toast to Langstroth)

In the summer of 1851 Langstroth developed the hive that is still used today and the “bee space.” Langstroth patented the first movable frame hive on October 5, 1852. Henry Bourquin, a fellow beekeeper and Philadelphia cabinetmaker, made Langstroth’s first hives. Langstroth hives encourage rapid inspection without enraging the bees. Weak colonies can be strengthened. Strong colonies can increase space. Queens are quickly replaced. Diseases, pests and parasites can be quickly determined and remedied. Inspection by removable frames is now required in the United States. Langstroth also began using queen excluders to confine eggs to the lower boxes. Removable frames encouraged honey extraction without destroying the comb. Honey comb requires 7 to 14 pounds of honey for every pound of beeswax. Besides increased honey production, the beehive no longer had to be killed to remove the honey.

Langstroth published “The Hive and the Honey-Bee” in 1853 still in print today after 40 editions. Langstroth died October 6, 1895 while preaching a sermon on the love of God at the Wayne Avenue Presbyterian church in Dayton. L. L. Langstroth is buried at Woodland Cemetery, Dayton, Ohio. Langstroth’s epitaph reads —

Langstroth

INSCRIBED TO THE MEMORY OF REV. L.L. LANGSTROTH, “FATHER OF AMERICAN BEEKEEPING,” BY HIS AFFECTIONATE BENEFICIARIES WHO, IN THE REMEMBRANCE OF THE SERVICES RENDERED BY HIS PERSISTENT AND PAINSTAKING OBSERVATIONS AND EXPERIMENTS WITH THE HONEY BEE, HIS IMPROVEMENTS IN THE HIVE, AND THE LITERARY ABILITY SHOWN IN THE FIRST SCIENTIFIC AND POPULAR BOOK ON THE SUBJECT OF BEEKEEPING IN THE UNITED STATES, GRATEFULLY ERECT THIS MONUMENT.

Langstroth_Hive_Honey-Bee_1206

Ebook:  The Hive and the Honey Bee

Audio recording: The Hive and the Honey Bee

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A Metaphysical Life by Bad Beekeeping Blog

05 Friday Nov 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, birthday, birthdays

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Happy Birthday Richard Taylor.

Richard Taylor (November 5, 1919 – October 30, 2003), born in Charlotte, Michigan, was an American philosopher renowned for his dry wit and his contributions to metaphysics. He was also an internationally known beekeeper.

Today is the  anniversary of the birth of one of my beekeeper-heroes, Professor Richard Taylor. He was an early champion of the round comb honey system, a commercial beekeeper with just 300 hives, and he was a philosopher who wrote the book on metaphysics. Really, he wrote the book on metaphysics – for decades, his college text Metaphysics introduced first-year philosophy students to the most fundamental aspect of reality – the nature of cosmology and the existence of all things.

Although his sport of philosophy was speculative, unprovable, and abstract to the highest degree, Richard Taylor was as common and down-to-earth as it’s possible to become. I will write about his philosophy and how it shaped his politics, but first, let’s celebrate his beekeeping.

Read the complete article at: A Metaphysical Life — Bad Beekeeping Blog

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Happy Birthday Albert J. Cook

30 Monday Aug 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeper, beekeeper education, beekeeping, beekeeping history, birthday, birthdays

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albert_j__cook_educator

Birth: Aug. 30, 1842
Michigan, USA
Death: Sep. 29, 1916
Shiawassee County
Michigan, USA

Albert J. Cook (1842-1916) was a 19th century educator and writer who influenced an entire generation of American beekeepers. He served as an instructor at Michigan Agricultural College (Michigan Agricultural University) in 1866 (Michigan State University later) where he offered one of the first collegiate courses in beekeeping culture.

Cook published the first textbook on American beekeeping, The Manual of the Apiary, in 1876 based upon his lecture series. The book was an instant success. Beginning as a mere brochure, this textbook expanded through ten editions in less than a decade, growing with each edition.

Albert J. Cook, professor of zoology and entomology, established the insect collection at Michigan Agricultural College (Agricultural University of Michigan) in 1867. By 1878, the collection consisted of nearly 1,200 local specimens collected primarily used for demonstration classrooms, for comparison, and to aid in species identification for farmers Michigan.

External links

  • Works by or about Albert John Cook at Internet Archive

Bibliography

  • Manual of the apiary. Chicago: Newman & Son (1880).
  • Wintering bees. Lansing: Agricultural College of Michigan (1885).
  • Report of apicultural experiments in 1891. (1892).
  • The Bee-Keeper’s Guide; or Manual of the Apiary pp. 543. (17th ed.) Chicago: Newman & Son (1902).

Source: http://beekeeping.wikia.com/wiki/Albert_J._Cook

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Happy Birthday Maurice Maeterlinck

29 Sunday Aug 2021

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Maurice_de_Maeterlinck

Tucker Collection – New York Public Library Archives

From Wikipedia:

Maurice Polydore Marie Bernard Maeterlinck[1] (also called Comte (Count) Maeterlinck from 1932;[2] [mo.ʁis ma.tɛʁ.lɛ̃ːk] in Belgium, [mɛ.teʁ.lɛ̃ːk] in France;[3] 29 August 1862 – 6 May 1949) was a Belgian playwright, poet, and essayist who was a Fleming, but wrote in French. He was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1911 “in appreciation of his many-sided literary activities, and especially of his dramatic works, which are distinguished by a wealth of imagination and by a poetic fancy, which reveals, sometimes in the guise of a fairy tale, a deep inspiration, while in a mysterious way they appeal to the readers’ own feelings and stimulate their imaginations”. The main themes in his work are death and the meaning of life. His plays form an important part of the Symbolist movement.

maeterlink

From Amazon.com on his book titled, The Life of the Bee.

In an exuberantly poetic work that is less about bees and more about life, Maurice Maeterlinck expresses his philosophy of the human condition. The renowned Belgian poet and dramatist offers brilliant proof in this, his most popular work, that “no living creature, not even man, has achieved in the center of his sphere, what the bee has achieved.” From their amazingly intricate feats of architecture to their intrinsic sense of self-sacrifice, Maeterlinck takes a “bee’s-eye view” of the most orderly society on Earth.
An enthusiastic and expert beekeeper, Maeterlinck did not intend to write a scientific treatise, even though he details such topics as the mathematically accurate construction of the hive, the division of labor among community members, the life of the young queen and her miraculous nuptial flight, and the movement and meaning of the swarm.
An enchanting classic by one of the most important figures of world literature in the twentieth century and winner of the 1911 Nobel Prize in Literature, this fascinating study is a magnificent tribute to one of the most orderly communities in the world. It is also filled with humble lessons for the human race.

 

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The Rule of 72 and Mite Control

27 Friday Aug 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, varroa, varroa destructor, varroa mites

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exponentialgrowth

The rule of 72 and mite control.

The rule of 72 is a financial rule of thumb that says that 72 divided by an interest rate will tell you how long it takes for any given amount of money to double.

There are a lot of factors involved but this is also true with many other things in life. For example, we could determine a similar calculation for mites in honey bee colonies.

How is this relevant? The relevance is in the doubling effect. A financial planner will tell you to start saving early for this reason. No matter how much, or little, it matters to start early. Why? To get more doublings.

Your first year’s savings may take 7 years to double. That may be doubling from $1000 to $2000. Not much in the big picture of retirement, huh? But remember there’s another $1000 for each year you saved after your first year. And so it goes. Compounding takes effect and the total grows.

In ten years lets say you have$15,000. That $15,000 doubles in another 7 years plus any additional you have added. By the second doubling you’ll start to see the effects of compound interest.

So, here’s the kicker. By the time you are ready to retire, let’s  say you have $500,000. That’s great but what if you had started 7 years earlier? Think about this. The answer is you’d have another doubling in the equation. That’s right, $1,000,000. The big One Million. Or an additional $500,000 in just seven years. Crazy huh?

And to the point of this post. A mite population has a rule of 72 which can be calculated by it reproductive rate. What does that mean when it comes to mites? It means, just like the rule of 72 and money, it isn’t the first doubling that kills the colony, it’s the last doubling. Now doesn’t this explain some things that sometimes seem unexplainable? Like sudden colony crashes and what appears to be abscondings? That last doubling is simply overwhelming. The viral load transmitted by the mites becomes unsurvivable by the bees. Of course, with bees, the rule of 72 with mites in beehives has a limiting factor – the survivability of the bees.

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Happy Birthday George W. Imirie, Jr.

27 Friday Aug 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeper, beekeeper education, beekeeping, birthday, birthdays, management

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Birth: Aug. 27, 1923
Death: Aug. 6, 2007

​imirie1By Patricia Sullivan

Washington Post Staff Writer
Saturday, October 6, 2007

George Wady Imirie Jr., 84, a master beekeeper who tirelessly promoted the value of bees and beehives, died of congestive heart failure Sept. 6 at the Casey House in Rockville.

As a beekeeper since 1933, Mr. Imirie knew enough about the stinging insects to brave the swarms at his Rockville home without the usual head-to-toe beekeeping garb.

“Bees don’t like socks, especially woolly ones,” he told a reporter in 1997. “A hat is a good idea, because if a bee gets tangled up in your hair, it’ll sting you. I don’t wear a shirt, because that way, if a bee is on me, I can feel it and brush it away.”

Far more than stings, Mr. Imirie worried about the decline in bee colonies over the past several decades, infestation of the wild bee population by mites, and the level of knowledge and skill of those who keep apiaries.

“He definitely was someone who didn’t feel it necessary to tolerate any ignorance around him,” said Marc Hoffman, a member of the Montgomery County Beekeepers Association, which Mr. Imirie founded. “He would interrupt someone to ask, ‘How many hours is it before the larva emerges from the egg?’ and you’d better know the answer.”

But he also shared his knowledge, writing an opinionated and blunt newsletter called the “Pink Pages,” which addressed how to prevent swarming, how to prepare in fall so bees would overwinter well and how to deal with pests. The newsletter was read by beekeepers around the world. He coined a phrase now popular in bee circles, “Be a bee-keeper, not a bee-haver.”

In addition, Mr. Imirie and his sons thrilled Montgomery County Fair visitors and schoolchildren with demonstrations with a live hive of honeybees.

A Bethesda native born to a family that has been in the area for 298 years, Mr. Imirie started tending hives at age 9, following in the footsteps of his father and grandfather. He dropped the hobby when he went to the University of Michigan for his undergraduate degree.

He was studying for a graduate degree in atomic engineering when World War II broke out. He was briefly in the Army, then joined the Manhattan Project in Oak Ridge, Tenn., and Los Alamos, N.M., working on the atomic bombs that were dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

After the war, he studied engineering at Washington University in St. Louis and American University, one of his sons said. Mr. Imirie returned to Bethesda and helped run the family auto parts business for most of his working life until it was sold 18 years ago.

Mr. Imirie resumed beekeeping on his six-acre property in Rockville. He set up the hives in a square around a gnarly old apple tree. A hedge trimmed to a height just taller than Mr. Imirie surrounded the yard so that when bees emerged from the hives in search of nectar they would fly high enough to clear the bushes and avoid bystanders.

He founded the beekeepers association in the 1980s and for many years ran it almost single-handedly. After five strokes in 1990, Mr. Imirie began using a scooter. Throat cancer further slowed him in the late 1990s.

When Maryland agreed to produce auto license plates with a beekeeping insignia, Mr. Imirie was given the prototype, BEE 001, which he affixed to his scooter.

The association named its annual award for education after him.

Source: http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2007/10/05/AR2007100502370.html

Birth: Aug. 27, 1923
Death: Aug. 6, 2007

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Happy Birthday Walt Wright

24 Tuesday Aug 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeper, beekeeping, beekeeping history, birthday, birthdays, education, famous beekeepers, swarms

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beekeeping, beekeeping history, education, famous beekeepers, honey bee swarms, swarm prevention, swarms, Walt Wright

walt-wrightWalt Wright was born and raised in Burtonsville, MD, then a barefoot country boy area, and now suburbia of a sprawling Washington, DC. He enlisted in the Air Force to get electronics training, and served as a radar repairman. After service time he joined General Electric in maintaining overseas sites of the Security Service (spell that SPY).

Still with GE, in 1960 he relocated to Huntsville, Ala./Redstone Arsenal to make his contribution on the nation’s quest to put a man on the moon. Development of the propulsive stages of the Saturn V moon rocket was accomplished by NASA on Redstone Arsenal. His responsibility on that program was electronic compatibility of subsystems within stages and compatibility between propulsive stages and the electronics of the instrument ring. No interaction (interference/noise) was permitted between systems on the man-rated launch vehicle.

For the Shuttle program, an added responsibility was systems engineer for on-board Range Safety components. The Air Force has autonomous authority to destroy any launch from the Cape area that poses a threat to populated areas of eastern Florida. Astronauts on board is no exception. If the launch strays from the predicted trajectory, the Air Force can destroy the vehicle by radio command. On-board equipment to implement destruct includes the command receiving and processing electronics and pyrotechnics to disperse propellants.

Walt is aware that the above work history provides very weak credentials to be considered as a honey bee “expert.” He took up beekeeping in his late fifties to supplement retirement income. Confident in his trouble shooting skills, he accepted the challenge “very early” to get to the bottom of the swarming problem. He credits observation skills, sharpened by years of electronics trouble-shooting, for solving the riddle. He was surprised that it was as easy as it was. When his hypothesis was in place in three years, he thought at first it must be in error. Surely, thousands of beekeepers, looking into millions of hives, could not possibly have missed the obvious. His conclusion: beekeepers see, but do not observe, or ask themselves why the bees do what they do.

Honey bees are motivated by survival of the colony. Survival of the existing colony is priority one. In the spring, priority two is the generation of the reproductive swarm. Not even that much is described in the popular literature. Walt concentrated his investigation of swarming in terms of colony activities that support those survival objectives. His findings are a radical departure from literature conventional wisdom. As an example, he claims that all the elements of “congestion”, such as bee crowding and nectar in the brood nest, are deliberate steps to implementing the reproductive swarm process, and not the other way around. The literature has congestion as the “cause” and that’s backwards.

Getting his observations published has been slow moving. Editors of the magazines have an obligation to their subscribers to weed out the chaff from crackpots. Natural skepticism creates mostly rejections of submitted articles. For the year 06 he resorted to writing articles on general beekeeping techniques to build a base of credibility.

He looks forward to presenting his observations through Beesource. It should not be necessary via this medium to appease editors or their advisors. As a start in telling it like it is, he announces point blank: The mystery of reproductive swarming has been solved.

*******************
Walter William Wright
August 24, 1932 – February 6, 2016
*******************

Reference:

http://beesource.com/point-of-view/walt-wright/

Title Publication Date
*Spring Reversal Not Good Management for All Areas? American Bee Journal Jan-96
*Spring Management is Mandatory With Tracheal Mites American Bee Journal Feb-96
*A Different Twist on Swarm Prevention, Part 1 American Bee Journal Mar-96
*A Different Twist on Swarm Prevention, Part 2 American Bee Journal Apr-96
*Checkerboarding – A Preliminary Update on My Swarm Control Method American Bee Journal Jun-96
*Checkerboarding Works American Bee Journal Jul-96
*Swarm Prevention Alternative – Checkerboarding Results and Conclusions American Bee Journal Nov-96
*Tennessee Early Spring Management Bee Culture Dec-96
*Playing It Safe Bee Culture Feb-97
*Swarm Prevention in Tennessee Bee Culture Mar-97
*Apply Survival Traits of Honey Bees for Swarm Prevention and Increased Honey Production, Part 1 American Bee Journal Feb-02
*Apply Survival Traits of Honey Bees for Swarm Prevention and Increased Honey Production, Part 2 American Bee Journal Mar-02
*Nectar Management 101 Bee Culture Feb-02
*Is It Congestion? Bee Culture Feb-03
*Survival Traits of the European Honey Bee Bee Culture Mar-03
*Seasonal Colony Survival Traits Bee Culture Apr-03
*Swarm Preperation Bee Culture May-03
*Colony Spring Operation Bee Culture Jun-03
*Colony Decision Making – And a Look at Observation Hive *Behavior Bee Culture Oct-03
*Evils of the Double Deep Bee Culture Nov-03
*Survival Traits #6 – Operational Effects on Nectar Accumulation Bee Culture Apr-04
Pollen Box Overwintering Bee Culture Sep-04
Do You Get Black Locust in the Supers? Bee Culture Jan-05
Are They Supersedure or Swarm Cells? Bee Culture Jul-05
Fall Feeding Bee Culture Nov-05
Nine Frame Brood Chamber? Never! Bee Culture Jan-06
Drone Management Bee Culture Mar-06
Deficiencies in Design of the Queen Excluder Bee Culture Apr-06
Advantages/Disadvantages of Swarm Prevention By Checkerboarding/Nectar Management Bee Culture May-06
The Reasons Why the Queen Excluder Limits Honey Production Bee Culture Jun-06
“Attic” Ventilation Bee Culture Jul-06
Yarn # 1 – Little Momma Bee Culture Aug-06
*Backfilling – What’s That? Bee Culture Sep-06
Freebees Bee Culture Oct-06
Nest Scouts and the Dance Language Bee Culture Nov-06
Boardman Feeder/Stimulative Feeding Bee Culture Feb-07
Splits Are a Sound Investment Bee Culture Mar-07
*The Capped Honey Reserve Bee Culture Apr-07
Art of Beekeeping Bee Culture Sep-07
CCD – Another Opinion Bee Culture Sep-08
How Many Eggs CAN a Queen Lay? Bee Culture Nov-08
More on the Pollen Reserve BeeSource POV Mar-09
Adverse Effects of the “Patty” Bee Culture Apr-09
Propolis – Another 5 Percenter Bee Culture May-09
Objections To The Double Deep Bee Culture Dec-09
Colony Age Effects Bee Culture Feb-10
Small Hive Beetle – My Perspective Bee Culture Jul-10
*Prevent Swarming – Before The Bees Even Think About It Bee Culture Feb-11
*Increased Honey Production of Checkerboarded Colonies Bee Culture Apr-11
*CB Saves Work, Time, And Expenses Bee Culture Jun-11
*Nectar Storage Before The Main Flow BeeSource POV
Nectar Management Works! – by Rob Koss BeeSource POV
Management For Honey Production BeeSource POV
Supplement To Management For Honey Production Handout BeeSource POV
Note: Title with an asterisk (*) in front are pertinent to Nectar Management.

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Drawn Comb, Wax Moths, and Fish Bait by sassafrasbeefarm

05 Thursday Aug 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping pest management, comb, drawn comb, management, pests

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wax moth destruction

You can always buy more bees, catch a swarm, make a split, or otherwise replace bees. But drawn comb can not be purchased. Having drawn comb in early spring exponentially increases a colony’s productivity versus starting on foundation. A spring package placed on drawn comb typically makes surplus honey the same year.

After the nectar flow, beekeepers must protect their drawn comb from wax moths which will take every opportunity to destroy your bee’s legacy.  You may have to store drawn comb after pulling honey supers, extracting, removing dead outs or removing excess hive bodies as the bee colony population reduces. Always remember, drawn comb is beekeepers’ gold and should be saved and preserved until placed back into use the following spring.

Here are a few excerpts from emails discussing protecting drawn comb from wax moths during storage:

Wax moths are attracted to older brood comb. The residual proteins found in brood comb are their attractant. Typically they will not show any interest (or minimal) in the clean white wax found in honey supers. If any of the comb on a frame has been used at any time in the past for brood rearing it is subject to wax moth infestation.

Be thankful they are on plastic foundation. Otherwise you often have to replace the foundation. And if they are in wooden frames wax moths will actually bore holes in the wood as well. On plastic you can scrape it off and re-coat with wax for next year.

On placing frames in the freezer to kill the wax moth eggs: You can google wax moth, life cycle, etc and find some research. The success of killing the larvae and eggs is dependent on temperature and length of time of exposure. Two days may be sufficient IF your freezer is at 0 degrees F. If your freezer is kept at 20 degrees F it may take 6 days. And if at 32 degrees F it may take longer. (These are just guesses but perhaps you get the idea that an overnight in the freezer may not do the job.) Some people with a limited number of frames can store them in the freezer until outdoor temperatures are colder.

In the bee yard, there is a temperature range for wax moth reproduction. When the outdoor temperatures get cool enough (typically after first freeze) they are typically no longer a threat.

Every year we get posts on the Mid-State Beekeepers discussion board with pictures saying they froze the comb for X number of days then placed it in a Tupperware or other container and stored under the house or some similar dark place only to find the comb destroyed by spring. Last year in bee school a member of the class asked me about this specifically and said if he placed the frames in the freezer for X number of days and then immediately placed it in lawn trash bags and sealed them completely shouldn’t that work? I told him that “in theory” his plan would work but my experience is some eggs will hatch, a mouse will chew a hole, etc., and if conditions are right they will destroy his comb.

On Paramoth (paradichlorobenzene) crystals: The approved product for use with stored comb, and properly labeled, is Paramoth. Moth balls and crystals found in dollar stores, Walmart, and elsewhere may not be pure paradichlorobenzene or worse yet, may be another chemical, naphthalate a known carcinogenic.

Paramoth works well but it is not a one and done application. Use them according to the label and do not under-dose. The crystals “melt” as they release their gas into the supers. Periodically check them throughout the storage period (or until the weather turns cold) and replenish them as needed. I’ve seen some people tape the edges of the hive bodies to make a gas seal. Unfortunately this dark, sealed environment is also ideal for the moths when the para-moth dissolves and no longer provides protection. A period of airing out is necessary before placing the comb back into use.

Storing drawn comb using open air, light, and breeze: I did this one year with good success by placing the hive bodies on their sides under a covered overhang. The light, air, and breeze is an uninviting environment for the moths. This takes a bit of work to lay out the area such that all of the needed components are present AND the frames are protected from the elements. But if you only have a few hive bodies it’s possible. Also, be aware that anything placed outside is subject to squirrels, mice, and other hungry travelers who like the comb, pollen, and honey residuals.

Bacillus thuringiensis aizawa returns! BT (bacillus thuringiensis aizawa): BT is a gram-positive, soil-dwelling bacterium, commonly used as a biological pesticide. This works well and in past years was recommended by the Xerces Society as an approved organic control. Some years ago BT was on the market for use by beekeepers as a product to control wax moths in stored frames until its registration expired and was not renewed by the manufacturer. It has again been registered for use and should start showing up at your favorite beekeeping supply house soon. I have not yet seen it on websites nor in the catalogs. (Word in the bee yard says call Dadant by phone and they’ll hook you up.)  A June 2020 article titled: Valent BioSciences Partners with Vita Bee Health to Develop New Biological Wax Moth Control That Safeguards Health of Honeybees indicates it’s returning to the market. I have a friend that uses BT and sprays the comb as it is coming out of the extractor. Care must be taken to protect the BT sprayed comb from temperatures above 86F degrees  as the bacterium can not survive at higher temperatures. More information can be found in this January release by ABJ here.

Final notes on BT: 1) Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki readily available in garden centers is not the same as bacillus thuringiensis aizawa. 2) There is a product called XenTari for use as non chemical, organic bio control method and approved for use on organic crops is also Bacillus thuringiensis, aizawai. However it is not approved for use as a control for wax moths on comb nor labeled as such. Remember, use of non approved chemicals without proper labelling places the beekeeper at risk should someone claim harm after eating honey from hives where pesticides were not used in accordance with the law.

In closing, for those who protect their drawn comb now, next spring will pay huge dividends in the way of easy splits and surplus honey. And for those who choose to not protect their drawn comb from wax moths don’t despair, I understand the larvae are great as fishing bait.

You can read more about the Greater Wax Moth here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galleria_mellonella

And on the Lesser Wax Moth here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lesser_wax_moth

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Everything Starts with a Tasty Meal by sassafrasbeefarm

01 Sunday Aug 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, beekeeping pest management, management, pests, small hive beetles, yellow jackets

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

beekeeping, management, pests

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Quite literally, everything starts with a tasty meal.

In 1943 Abraham Maslow wrote a psychology article proposing a human heirarchy of needs. The short and sweet of the article is: humans start with meeting their basic needs such as food and shelter and, only as those needs are secure can we move to more advanced levels of operations.

So, what does this have to do with bees or insects? Well, we probably need to understand other life forms also have a hierarchy of needs even if limited or primitive. Instead of behaviorally based it’s totally instinctual and for most it starts with food and ends with reproduction. Small Hive Beetles, Wax Moths, Yellow Jackets, and other pests are simply trying to have a tasty meal and move on to reproduction.

Our job, as beekeepers, is to interrupt their ability to progress from food acquisition to reproduction. They want food; deny them access to food and they never progress to reproduction. Let this thought occupy our minds as we contemplate how to combat these pests (after all, we’re already fed so we can operate on higher Maslovian levels).

Denying food to pests: Does our bee feeding program build up the opposing armies as well as feed our bees? Do you see SHB or yellow jackets at your feeding station? Have we provided our hives with adequate defensive tools like entrance reducers, SHB traps, and “hive right-sizing” to guard and protect food stores? Are we inadvertently announcing food availability with fragrant oils to attract pests who are actively seeking out food sources?

Using their needs against them: Bait traps can turn the tables on the pests by tricking them into thinking a food source is available. Simple, cheap traps can be made to attract these pests while NOT attracting honey bees. Poor, poor pests; can’t we all just get a snack? If they are hungry they are more likely to try that bait trap. Be careful not to create an increase in pest pressure through careless feeding of the foes.

My point is simply, if they don’t eat they don’t reproduce.

I remember some time back being encouraged to think like a honey bee. During these times of food dearth, perhaps it also pays to start thinking like a pest.

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Bee Stings and Nectar Dearth by sassafrasbeefarm

30 Friday Jul 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, dearth, honey bee behavior

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Tags

beekeeping, dearth, honey bee behavior

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One of our own took a few stings to the face last night. It seems instinctual for bees to go for the face.

If you’ve just started keeping bees you’re going to be asked by your friends and family, “Do you get stung?” I typically am cordial and say, “Yes, sometimes.” Then in an effort to be a good bee ambassador I go on to minimize the sting and tell them stings to the hands and arms are not so troubling. I also have a tendency to lift up the honey bee by maligning the yellow jacket. If any yellow jackets are reading this I apologize.

The true fact of the matter is, I just don’t like being stung! So, just a reminder for everyone to suit up or get yourself a veil for quick chores. Especially new beekeepers may fall victim to the bees’ gentleness during the nectar flow. Yes, they are most typically gentle during the nectar flow but even then things like queenlessness, an overcast, drizzly day, or entry early or late in the day may draw unwelcome attention from guards or foragers in the hive. Yes, you may get away with opening them up for changing a feed jar 20 times before one day when you pull that cover and wham!

And then the dearth comes. New beekeepers out there need to know that our Midlands area nectar flow will take a sharp turn downward very close to the beginning of June. It doesn’t turn off, but nectar in excess of colony needs will. This happens at a time when colony population is booming as a result of spring growth and times of plenty. What happens is those numerous foragers now become unemployed. Often they will head out in the morning and “clean up” what nectar is available early in the day, then hang out at home afterwards. It’s hot, nectar is becoming scarce, they’re crowded, and ready to guard their honey stores from other colonies also out looking for food. Also, yellow jackets and other pests may be on the increase which makes them more defensive than normal. My point being, that docile, gentle nature you have become used to during the current nectar flow will become more defensive after the nectar flow so let’s get in the habit now of suiting up or wearing a simple veil. Don’t be the test case for when dearth starts in the Midlands.

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Safety in the Bee Yard by sassafrasbeefarm

27 Tuesday Jul 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, management, safety

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

beekeeping, management, safety

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Safety is always important but summer heat, dearth behavior, harvesting, and other factors make it especially important to talk about it now that dearth has started and the summer heat is upon us.

Your suit/jacket/veil: Make sure your jacket and especially your veil is “bee tight.” Holes in your veil, which you may have been ignoring. will be found by the bees this time of year. If you need a new jacket this year, consider one of the newer light weight ventilated jackets to help with the heat. And just a reminder to double check your zippers before opening the hives.

Gloves: You may have tried going gloveless during the nectar flow and had success. You may still have success. Don’t throw your old gloves away though. You may find having them handy a good idea for times the bees object to your presence.

First aid kit: I keep an old small metal Band-Aid box in my yard bucket. In it I have:

1) an old expired plastic card similar to a credit card for scraping stings out. I usually use my fingernail but having a card may come in handy and is actually probably more efficient in removing stingers with minimal injection of venom.

2) Benedryl, StingEze, Aspirin, Tylenol

3) Bandaids, tweezers, alcohol wipes.

I also have a chemical ice pack in my yard bucket and always a spare bottle of water.

You can quickly overheat in the summer while working your bees while wearing multiple layers of clothing and headgear. Last year, when out in the heat of the day, I started wearing one of those bandanas that absorb water (gel). For Christmas my kids found some fancy ones that hold a bit more water. I have not tried the new ones yet but the old ones worked well. A fellow beekeeper showed me a handy trick once when she poured a bottle of water into a cloth diaper and wrapped it around her neck before putting on her jacket.

Drinking Water: It’s not enough to have a backup bottle of water. Have multiple bottles of water close by when working your bees on hot days. Take frequent breaks. Hydrate!

EpiPen: A company has started selling generic Epipens for $10 through our local box store CVS pharmacy. I am not allergic but at my next doctor’s visit I’ll be asking for a prescription and will keep one with me on bee yard visits.

Cell Phone: A few years ago I stumbled when my foot hit a root stob while I was turning with a heavy box. I dislocated my knee and went down. I managed to reduce the dislocation and get back to the house but it made me think, “what if…?” Make sure you take a cell phone with you. It may be the most valuable safety equipment you pack. Also,  there’s no harm in telling someone where you’re going before you go out either.

Summer in the “famously hot” Midlands of South Carolina can be especially difficult on the beekeeper as well as the bees. Take extra precautions to ensure your safety in the bee yard.

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Beekeeper’s Journal by sassafrasbeefarm

23 Friday Jul 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, inspections, journal, log book, management

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

beekeeping, management

Journal

I’d encourage all new beekeepers to maintain a journal. There are commercial beekeeping journals available with hive inspection sheets and other features but any old notebook will do. You will appreciate your journal next year when you’re trying to remember when the nectar flow started, when you first saw white wax, swarm dates, when various plants started blooming, when dearth began, and much more. These events have a direct bearing on your hive management such as making splits, adding boxes, removing reducers, treating for mites and hive beetles, etc. Keeping a journal will make you a better beekeeper, more observant, and increase your enjoyment and knowledge of what’s happening with your bees.

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Protecting your Drawn Comb by sassafrasbeefarm

20 Tuesday Jul 2021

Posted by Beekeeping365 in beekeeping, chores, comb, drawn comb, management

≈ 1 Comment

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bacillus thuringiensis aizawa, beekeeping, chores, drawn comb, management, Para-moth, paradichlorobenzene, wax moth

wax moth destruction

First and second year beekeepers! You may be pulling honey supers, extracting, and have empty drawn comb. Or maybe a hive failed leaving you with drawn comb. Drawn comb is gold! You can always buy more bees, catch a swarm, make a split, or otherwise replace bees. But drawn comb can not be purchased. Having drawn comb exponentially increases a colony’s productivity versus starting on foundation. A spring package on drawn comb typically makes honey the same year.

Beekeepers must protect their drawn comb from wax moths which will take every opportunity to destroy your bee’s legacy.

Here are a few excerpts from an email I sent discussing protecting drawn comb:

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Be thankful they are on plastic foundation. Otherwise you often have to replace the foundation. And if they are in wooden frames wax moths will actually bore holes in the wood as well. On plastic you can scrape it off and re-coat with wax for next year.

As for the freezer: You can Google wax moth, life cycle, etc and find some research. It’s like anything else, dependent on temperature and length of time of exposure. Two days may be sufficient IF your freezer is at 0 degrees F. If your freezer is kept at 10 degrees F it may take 6 days. And if at 20 degrees F it may take 14 days. (These are guesses but you get the idea.)

There is a temperature range for wax moth reproduction. When the temperatures get cool enough outside they are no longer a threat. I guess there are some people with a limited number of frames who can store them in the freezer until the weather cools enough.

Every year we get posts on the local discussion board with pictures saying they froze the comb for X number of days and then placed in in a Tupperware or other container and under the house or some similar dark place only to find the comb destroyed by spring. Last year in bee school a member of the class asked me about this specifically and said if he placed them in the freezer for days and then immediately placed it in lawn trash bags and sealed them completely and absolutely shouldn’t that work? I told him that “in theory” his plan would work but my experience is some eggs will hatch and if conditions are right they will destroy his comb.

On Para-moth (paradichlorobenzene) crystals: They do work but it is not a one and done application. Use them generously. Periodically check them through the storage period and replenish them as needed. They do “melt” as they release their gas into the supers. I’ve seen some people tape the edges of the supers to make a gas seal. Unfortunately this dark, sealed environment is also ideal for the moths when the para-moth dissolves and no longer provides protection.

Using open air and light: I did this one year with good success. I simply have too many supers now. Also, anything I place outside now is subject to squirrels who seem to like the comb, pollen, honey residuals.

BT (bacillus thuringiensis aizawa): Reports are, this works well. As you know it used to be a recognized method of wax moth control in bee hives but the company decided to not renew it’s license for use as such. Data used to be on the Clemson site. BT for use on crops is recognized as non chemical, organic bio control method and approved for use on organic crops. While an approved organic pest control method, it is no longer legal for use in bee hives.

I have a friend that uses BT and sprays the comb coming out of the extractor.

If you do not protect your comb from wax moths don’t despair, I understand the larvae are great as fishing bait.

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